Mt. Victoria

So this past weekend I got the chance to join two of my great friends for a climb of Mt. Victoria.

With a perfect weather forecast we set off to Abbot hut where we ate a great dinner of peanut stirfry and enjoyed a stellar selection of spirits while enjoying the ambience of the hut and the intense windstorm outside. Mt. Victoria is a classic in mountaineering and it was great to be up there in the crisp fall air. I remember reading once that the route is mostly walking, but its fancy walking.

Jon just past the sickle about to get back on the rock. The route is mostly a scramble with a few steps of easy rock climbing and some short sections of steeper snow.
Just after the sickle.
Once again, you guessed it- The Sickle. We had a late start because we thought it would be a quick out and back to the summit but we actually had to turn around just shy as to not miss our bus ride out!
Jonson tellin' it like it is.
The infamous scree slope on the way up (pictures in reverse order). A great trip!

Craig Crag

On Saturday I got the chance to Join Marc, Michelle and Craig to a new crag being developed in a secret location known only to few people, most of which havent been heard from in a while. We had a great day dodging and soaking of the sun rays as well as climbing some great routes.

Craig on an unnamed 12+
Marc on Into the Frey 11b.

After a couple of climbs I fixed a rope and took photos for an hour or so and when returning to the ground I was basically spent! A hot day in the mountains takes its toll!!

Devils Right Hand- Yamnuska

On Friday once again we took advantage of the Autumn weather and blasted up to Yam for an ascent of the route, Devils Right Hand. I remember seeing it from a route close by and it looked just awesome. After hearing 50/50 reports about the quality, Pat and I went to have a closer look.

Pat being pensive at the belay stance.
Nice corner crack leading to the roof and soon after, the top of the cliff.
Pat on the 4th pitch.
Sea of grey stone. 
Pat starting up the third pitch.

Another stellar day on Yam. Despite some negative feedback on the route, we thought it was pretty great:good stone, safe and nice climbing. 

The Diving Board- Yamnuska

Well last week I got the chance to team up with my good friend Jason for a good route on Yamnuska.  The route Diving Board ascends a steep wall on the east side of the mountain and is one of Andy's newer routes. As usual we followed the rack instructions and brought a good size collection of gear which turned out to be a good idea because we were placing a lot of it!

Looking down from top of second pitch.
Stoked as always..
Roof on third pitch.
Jason starting up the first pitch.

The route was awesome and even had a few token hands in crack climbing sections! One of my favorites yet.

Brazeau Icefield

So on the Edmonton friends annual climbing trip the plan was hatched yet again to journey to the hallowed steeps of Mt. Robson. Given our usual luck with the conditions and weather with that route, a second plan was organized to journey up high to the Brazeau Icefield to sample some wonderful glaciated terrain and climbing.

The first day was great. Perfect temps and weather allowed us to reach a high camp at 9500 feet.
Oh oh, the weather came in and we were tentbound!