Mt. Tupper and Mt. Sifton- Hermit Alpine

Just got back from a great couple of days of mountaineering in that cradle of mountaineering, Rogers Pass. Jeff and I loaded up the KIA, shot down the highway bright and early with a big coffee in hand and mega stoke on the mind. We hiked up to the Hermit alpine, pitched a camp and continued up the classic west ridge of Tupper. A good dinner ensued as the clouds crept in and the scotch was sipped. Saturday dawned a bit cloudy and we sat it out before the sun arrived again. A quick loop up a ridge on Sifton and down a snowfield before heading back to camp, brewing up a nice coffee and blasting down the trail to the awaiting cold beers in the creek. Another good trip to the Selkirks with good company.

Jeff doing his alpine moves.
Wonderful Sifton ridge.
Camp in paradise.

Tupper.

West Ridge of Tupper.
Classic times on classic routes and a good start to the season.

The Hideaway- ACC Canyon

On Saturday, Michelle and I joined some of our good friends for the hike up to the Hideaway crag deep inside the "ACC Gully" on Grotto mountain. We had a great time climbing the instant and new classics that are abundant there. Its slowly becoming one of our favorite spots because of the great location and excellent climbing.

Tools of the new crag trade.
MA- Mantle Delight
Mantle Delight

Mt.Lougheed from the Lookout.

BlackFeather Canyon

So on Friday I got the chance to head into a great place, Blackfeather Canyon with Zack, Amitai and Drew. We had a great day on the stellar stone and enjoyed great company in an amazing setting.

Drew on the super classic "Sister Ray"

My new obsession- "Kick me Down"...I am inspired by this great line.

Dad's Garden

Grey Scale- Yamnuska

On Friday I had a great day dodging rain showers and grabbing excellent stone on the modern route "Grey Scale" with Rob. Its a stellar route taking a pretty direct line through the grey rock left of the Bowl and Devils right Hand. Some laughs were had as we moved through the difficulties and Yam settings to the summit ridge where we topped out, had a little food , then started the rappels back to our shoes and packs at the bottom. Just great.

Firing the first pitch in good style.
Second pitch.
Last pitch.
Last pitch again.
Freehanging rappel off the summit ridge- good way to end the day! I would really like to do more of these modern routes this summer.

Valhalla Shop

So I just got my new Canon XSI with the EFS 17-85mm lens upgrade and I am pumped! Brought the camera in to the shop and took a couple of shots for the family to see what the "new" climbing dept looks like. 

Winter is Donesvile

Well I think thats it for skiing for me. People are still out there and the conditions are excellent but its just time to hang em up, exchange goggles for surf shorts and enjoy the 3 months of summer weather. Already have had a few great days out rock climbing and I am gearing up for a great summer of climbing, hiking and mountain biking. The summer ski wax is going on today and its time to get outside!!

Photographs

A perfect moment. Selkirks.
Cafe De Bogeuita, Havana.
Perfect Lighting in Vardero.
Storm rolling over the Bow Valley.
Magic light on EEOR.
Michelle at the Mt. Colin Hut.

So on Sunday I had the opportunity to hang out with one of my good friends and serve drinks for Rob and Marion's wedding. Aside from being an amazing night of friends and good times, Jason and I had a chat about the merits of un-edited photos. It's different working with just what you are given in terms of light and colour. Here are a few black and whites.

Summer Already?

Well I am sitting here at the computer with a nice americano trying to decide if I should go climbing or skiing tomorrow. This is the first time this season I have considered not skiing and it might be time to put the summer wax on, pull out the rock shoes and get ready for another season of summer. As this unfortunate decision is being made, I pulled up some photos from the last few years to renew the stoke factor, its just been such a great spring for touring... Well, maybe these shots can get us going again.

Alpine Magic.
Moby Dick, El Capitain.
Black Feather Canyon.
Cats eye View, Photo Nick Rapaich.
Relaxing by the palliser river after a few days climbing, bushwacking and dream living in the Royal Group- BC.

Bow Summit Couloir- Mt. Jimmy Simpson Sub peak

So today I met with my Friends John O, Lars B and Janez to exlpore a couloir above Bow Summit on the icefields parkway. After driving by it for years and wondering if it would go it was nice to be up there in May when the snow is strong and the weather warm. We stopped at Laggan's in Lake Louise, filled up on coffee and drove to Bow Summit where we started up the trail. Soon enough we were hiking up with our skis on our back and entering the start of the couloir. After reaching our highpoint we turned the pointy end down and did 80's style jump turns down the punchy snow to a safer spot where we could take photos and admire the view of Peyto Lake. We continued on the bomber melt-freeze crust to a traverse leading back to the main ski area of Bow Summit and soon after, the car. Another great day of skiing in the Rockies with friends!

Approaching the Couloir.
A handy moat to change skins for crampons.
Looking down the Couloir with Peyto Lake below.
Enjoying the schnarby melt freeze crust below.
Thanks guys!!

The Bridge

This is the bridge in Edmonton where it all started for me and climbing. My buddy Jimmy and I would skip school, steal rides, walk for 2 hours and basically do anything to climb here every week. It had everything from single pitches of rock climbing to hard aid climbing over water in which you had to wait until winter to traverse the catwalk on the underside, rappel to the frozen N Saskatewan river 25m below and climb up on body weight placements in cement hoping the ice is solid enough to hold us up because our skills weren't! So much adventure on something designed to move traffic...

"Pat Sheenan" Traverse

Wow what a great time to be skiing in the rockies! After finding the snowline on our first idea, Mt. Wilson to be a few hundred meters above the road we headed north to the big bend where we skinned up the road leading to the Sask glacier before cutting off and heading into the alpine for the "Pat Sheenan Traverse". The tour takes you across two minor unnamed icefields leading to Castleguard meadows and an amazing campsite surrounded by the giants of the rockies.  Today we awoke and did the "powder eleven" down the Saskatewan glacier to our awaiting car. Great travelling conditions, great company, great weather and a new area made this a tour for the mind to recall fondly.

Marc enjoying reaching the alpine near "hidden valley".
On an unnamed icefield at 9000 feet.
Our great camp in Castleguard Meadows.
Dusk on the Saskatewan Glacier and the encompasing greatness.

Must be spring time in the rockies ski friends!

More Freshfields....