Craig Crag

On Saturday I got the chance to Join Marc, Michelle and Craig to a new crag being developed in a secret location known only to few people, most of which havent been heard from in a while. We had a great day dodging and soaking of the sun rays as well as climbing some great routes.

Craig on an unnamed 12+
Marc on Into the Frey 11b.

After a couple of climbs I fixed a rope and took photos for an hour or so and when returning to the ground I was basically spent! A hot day in the mountains takes its toll!!

Devils Right Hand- Yamnuska

On Friday once again we took advantage of the Autumn weather and blasted up to Yam for an ascent of the route, Devils Right Hand. I remember seeing it from a route close by and it looked just awesome. After hearing 50/50 reports about the quality, Pat and I went to have a closer look.

Pat being pensive at the belay stance.
Nice corner crack leading to the roof and soon after, the top of the cliff.
Pat on the 4th pitch.
Sea of grey stone. 
Pat starting up the third pitch.

Another stellar day on Yam. Despite some negative feedback on the route, we thought it was pretty great:good stone, safe and nice climbing. 

The Diving Board- Yamnuska

Well last week I got the chance to team up with my good friend Jason for a good route on Yamnuska.  The route Diving Board ascends a steep wall on the east side of the mountain and is one of Andy's newer routes. As usual we followed the rack instructions and brought a good size collection of gear which turned out to be a good idea because we were placing a lot of it!

Looking down from top of second pitch.
Stoked as always..
Roof on third pitch.
Jason starting up the first pitch.

The route was awesome and even had a few token hands in crack climbing sections! One of my favorites yet.

Brazeau Icefield

So on the Edmonton friends annual climbing trip the plan was hatched yet again to journey to the hallowed steeps of Mt. Robson. Given our usual luck with the conditions and weather with that route, a second plan was organized to journey up high to the Brazeau Icefield to sample some wonderful glaciated terrain and climbing.

The first day was great. Perfect temps and weather allowed us to reach a high camp at 9500 feet.
Oh oh, the weather came in and we were tentbound!

Mt. Whyte- North East Ridge

So on Friday I teamed up with a couple of friends, Amitae and Zach for a climb of that classic mountain- Bruno Engler's favourite, Mt. Whyte. The day started very well with  a double americano with the beans freshly ground outside as to not wake up Michelle at 3:00 am. We shot down the road to lake Louise in the dark and started up the quiet trail to lake Agnes and the start of the route. 

After scrambling for an hour or so to reach the climbing, we popped out through the mist and came across something that is simply magic- above the fog with all the giants poking through and not revealing their bases- Himalayan.
Easy Scrambling terrain leading to the ledge.
Big traverse ledge at 1/3 height.
Glory Spectre on a mountain pilgrimage.

We tried a few starts on the N side of the mountain and went through a bit of time before deciding to head back to avoid the daily thundershowers (which didn't happen) and make it back to laggans before closing time. I think we now know the route for next time after scoping around a bit and it would be great to go back for round 2. For me though its back to resting as I am off for a week of mountaineering on the 10th and I am still not over this flu I have- TV and Coffee!! 

Back of the Lake

We had a stellar day climbing at the back of the lake yesterday and a good time was had by all. The weather was perfect and projects were getting worked on. We "beat our heads on the rock" as my friend Greg says as we tried and flailed on a few steep climbs. Classic routes and great people is my favourite kind of time.

Mike on "Incomplete" 12+- This climbs amazingingly.

Of course, the Lake.

Mt. Tupper and Mt. Sifton- Hermit Alpine

Just got back from a great couple of days of mountaineering in that cradle of mountaineering, Rogers Pass. Jeff and I loaded up the KIA, shot down the highway bright and early with a big coffee in hand and mega stoke on the mind. We hiked up to the Hermit alpine, pitched a camp and continued up the classic west ridge of Tupper. A good dinner ensued as the clouds crept in and the scotch was sipped. Saturday dawned a bit cloudy and we sat it out before the sun arrived again. A quick loop up a ridge on Sifton and down a snowfield before heading back to camp, brewing up a nice coffee and blasting down the trail to the awaiting cold beers in the creek. Another good trip to the Selkirks with good company.

Jeff doing his alpine moves.
Wonderful Sifton ridge.
Camp in paradise.

Tupper.

West Ridge of Tupper.
Classic times on classic routes and a good start to the season.

The Hideaway- ACC Canyon

On Saturday, Michelle and I joined some of our good friends for the hike up to the Hideaway crag deep inside the "ACC Gully" on Grotto mountain. We had a great time climbing the instant and new classics that are abundant there. Its slowly becoming one of our favorite spots because of the great location and excellent climbing.

Tools of the new crag trade.
MA- Mantle Delight
Mantle Delight

Mt.Lougheed from the Lookout.

BlackFeather Canyon

So on Friday I got the chance to head into a great place, Blackfeather Canyon with Zack, Amitai and Drew. We had a great day on the stellar stone and enjoyed great company in an amazing setting.

Drew on the super classic "Sister Ray"

My new obsession- "Kick me Down"...I am inspired by this great line.

Dad's Garden

Grey Scale- Yamnuska

On Friday I had a great day dodging rain showers and grabbing excellent stone on the modern route "Grey Scale" with Rob. Its a stellar route taking a pretty direct line through the grey rock left of the Bowl and Devils right Hand. Some laughs were had as we moved through the difficulties and Yam settings to the summit ridge where we topped out, had a little food , then started the rappels back to our shoes and packs at the bottom. Just great.

Firing the first pitch in good style.
Second pitch.
Last pitch.
Last pitch again.
Freehanging rappel off the summit ridge- good way to end the day! I would really like to do more of these modern routes this summer.

Valhalla Shop

So I just got my new Canon XSI with the EFS 17-85mm lens upgrade and I am pumped! Brought the camera in to the shop and took a couple of shots for the family to see what the "new" climbing dept looks like.