Mt.Lougheed Traverse

On Friday Scott Parent and I had the chance to try the Lougheed Traverse in Peter Lougheed park. It consists of 4 peaks of mostly scrambling but a bit of easy fifth class here and there. It was the first time Scott and I were out climbing together and we had a great time giv'n'er from peak to peak. Took us 18 hrs car to car and probably twice that for our legs to recover once home.

Mt.Cline "the lost 11000'er"

Last weel Michelle and I headed into Mt.Cline with our friend from Edmonton, Mike Short. A nice walk through the timber delivers you quickly into the alpine and soon after, a lovely campsite in a meadow overlooking the David Thompson valley. Having not done much climbing so far this year, Mike opted to rest up for the hike out while Michelle and I set off for a closer look at our route. Strong headwinds and dark northerly clouds made our sphincters tighten up so much that we quickly headed down to our camp where we drank coffee and ate for a few more hours before strating the hike back to the highway. Even though we didnt even see the peak it was still a nice time out with good company in the mountians.

Mt.Athabasca-North Ridge Bypass

On Friday, Mike trehearne and I got the chance to drive to the Icefields Parkway to atempt Mt.Athabasca. The North ridge offers a nice position between the Boundry and Athabasca glaciers and is well worth doing. It has been a while since Mike and I last climbed together (in fact, the last time we were off to the alpine to go climbing was our spankfest in the Alaska ranges) and we had a good time hooting and hollering all the way up the ridge, good times.

Geriatric

After our trip into the cave, we headed onto Jasper where much fun was had sport climbing at the crag "lost boys", having got pumped out of our gourds on the steep climbing of the area, Marc-Andre Cousineau and I teamed up for more of a rest day on a nice 7 pich 5.8 on EEOR, Geriatric. the route provided a nice position over "whitemans pond" (why did they re-name chinamans peak but not whitemans pond, maybe they should call it caucasion lake?) and a great view into the kananaskis ranges.

The nest of rats

On account of the gloomy weather forecast we made our way again into "rats nest cave" again. We made it past a section that was flooded on our last trip about 2 km in. After that day the weather cleared up for a day of sport climbing in Jasper as well as a day climbing a nice 7 pitch trad line on EEOR.

The fat lady sang

Well thats it for the Oilers, good game tonight though. The team couldnt get it going until the third period....oh well. On a good note, we get our evenings back. Here are some shots of life and climbing over the last few weeks...

Se ya Selane

Well the Oilers had a pretty sensational game shuting Anaheim out of the playoffs once and for all tonight. A shot wired into the net from Pronger and tipped in by torres sealed the deal early in the second period. Nice to see them come back from being on there heels in game 4 to putting the puck in the zone and being more aggresive in the forecheck during game 5. Good fast paced hockey. Carolina or buffalo?, thats the million dollar question.

sporting

Had a pretty good time sport climbing at Lake Louise yesterday. The fire is burning again for bolts and I find myself content with just trying to get strong at the crag and having a good time with friends and enjoying my surroundings. For the last few years it seems I have pushed sport climbing away, or at least at arms reach, dabbling in here and there just for "completness" sake. Trying at least to pursue climbing on mountains and on longer traditional climbs. From 99-02 I was sport climbing a lot and having a fine time out there, not yet living in the hills but getting out from Edmonton every weekend, the sport climbing worked its way into my confidence and those yeasr I was able to do some of the best climbs of my ability both on yam (dreambed, jimmy and the cruisers, etc) and at the crag (lots of 12s done in an afternoon)..... I think that great well rounded climbers are not chained to any one discipline but are accepting of all techniques and types of climbing and that the style in which these things are done in carries the most importance.....

Cholkstone Corner

Jeff Macpherson and I climbed one of the classics on Yamnuska this past Thursday, Cholkstone corner. The rock is quite nice and at times the situtation is really good. We hiked up with Marc-Andre and Natalie as they were on their way to "grey goose". Later we had great pizza and beer at the rocky mountain flatbread company in town. The pictures are a bit blurry and the lighting was like wlking around with a shoe box on your head so bear with the photos please.

Southern Great Divide

As it seems our big trip of the spring time was not to be. Travelling "light" from the Alexandria river valley (just south of the columbia icefields) and finishing at Lake Louise 12 days later, we were to try the "Southern Great Divide traverse", a line through the crest of the southern rockies that links most of the major icefields along the way. After 4 days of waiting in the "Alex", waking to plus temperatures and discovering that it can infact rain in April at 9000 feet, we pulled the plug. A slightly frustrating end to a great time out with the mates. Later that week, the temperatures became cold enough to warrant another attempt. Mike and Dave headed in for another try and made it, a solid effort on their part. The rest of us headed down to Skaha for some rock climbing for a week or so, then it was back to work.

Popes peak

Back in early March we went out to ski Popes peak. Conditions were the best they had been all winter and the time was right to "rage the alpine". Light powder and great views from the col between popes peak and the "unnamed peak" into the plain of the six glaciers and the death trap. If every ski day was like that they would have to lock me up.

The Polar Circus

Rene and I managed to climb Polar Circus on Thursday. Well almost, we backed off 15m from the top on account of being tired and the ice being wetter than spring break 1988. Having been in skiing mode all winter, It was really nice to head out and do one last big route before the end of the season. I will post more pictures from Rene's camera soon....... whhhhoooaaaaaaa yeah!

Ice climbing sans "dragonnes"

Two days ago at Johnstone canyon I came to the realization that I no longer like my leashes. I am not really trying to say either way which is better, only to ponder the thought that after the last few years going back and forth I have decided that I really do prefer climbing without the "dragonnes". What does this mean? Well, it doesnt bother me if takes me three times as long to climb riptide or ice porn. With the leash, I am bound to the tool like atlas and the world craving the freedom of Zorba the greek, who may dance around un-hindered with a large smile...

Burstall Pass

So last week I managed somehow to spend a day touring with three lovely ladies; Michelle, Jackie and Laura. The girls ripped it up! whhoooaa mama