Dave and the D5

My good friend Dave sent this photo of him  on his CAT D5 in Edmonton. Cant wait to go skiing with you man, already hoping for winter! 

Wishbone

This last friday, Mike and I shot up the parkway for an alpine mission. We had our sights set on something that we heard was in but as we ascended the broken talus and lateral moraines to get there, our eyes caught sight of a cool line coming down and barely touching the ground- we decided to check it out...

Mike brought a big piece of french bread for lunch, not sure why this photo made it in here?
The aformentioned hike and the weather which proved to be wintery
Entering the chimney, as I was climbing this I heard a loud pop in my shoulder. Trying to weight bear was painful, I finished to pitch and Mike came up to the belay. Having dislocated his shoulder years ago, he had some good questions to ask me before we decided to go down. The thing was swelling up faster that a fish in the sun. This route will have to wait...
Mike killing it on the first attempt to get to the ice, good effort. Too thin for us- no gear, scary.
 Good times, Doc says its a "torn posterior rotator cuff ligament". Try saying that at 6am, or anytime for that matter. Either way I am off the sauce for a few weeks while I recover the arm, hopefully back at it in mid November!

Another Great Summer-Wrap up Movie

Here is a little I movie I made about the summer in the Rockies, a great one indeed. After hurting my finger pulley in May, it was time to head up high and sample some of the great moderate alpine climbs that the Rockies have to offer. A big thanks goes out to the great partners I was lucky enough to have this summer!!

ESE Ridge Lady Macdonald

Early this morning I teamed up with my friends Amitai, Zach and Drew for a boulder hopping, creek jumping approach to the E ridge of Lady Macdonald. Even though I have actually done this route 4 times, I always get jazzed up thinking about the cool ridge and dreamy rock that makes up the thing.

Taking a back seat in the route finding, the fellas led us up to a great (and probably the actual) variation to the standard route, great rock and petrified churt make for secure and fun climbing.

Drew amidst the churt
The small step leading to the ridge
The ridge proper, what its all about
Thanks to the crew for a good day out

Baby Times, Nephew Times

My great little nephew for all to see, congrats to my sister and Terrance! Can wait to head back home and see them all again..

Lake Louise Alpine

So last Friday I met up with Jeff, Amitai and Zach for a climb of the classic "unnamed peak" near Lake Louise. We attempted it a few weeks ago only to get turned around by marginal weather and conditions. It was a great day in the mountains as we made our way up the ridge, weaving around loose or snowy sections, taking in the deep hues of the changing Larches and marveling at the chance to be in such a place.

The fellas coming up over the small snowpatch that signals the start of the route.
The first rock step. There are three of these steps, all close together and the first two are of similar difficulty. Probably about 5.6.
Rapelling the route after a great day. The snow slowed us down a bit and took a few hours.

A good day, thanks guys!

Alone In the Wilderness

This is one of the best things I have seen, I am going to order a copy of it

The Last Two Weeks

Well the last two weeks have been great, Michelle and I dropped by on my sister and T for a visit with the new babe two weeks ago. The little man is great and as always, we had a super time enjoying good company and having great meals. A few days before that, Michelle and I had a quick backpack into Yoho valley for an overnight. We hiked into twin falls in the morning, set our six pack of grasshopper in the creek and had a nice lazy day before heading out the next morning to Trailhead cafe in Lake Louise for their Local breakfast wrap "the cure", back to work by 11am. 

Last weekend, I teamed up with my buddy's Amitai and Zack for a nice two days of climbing at Lake Louise, then hiking up to Castle mountain hut where we continued to drink huge amounts of tea and eatca huge dinner of rice, sausage and veg. The next day reminded us that this is summer 08 as we rappeled close to 300m off of Brewers Buttress in a horizontaly driving snowstorm. All is well though as we had more tea in the hut waiting for us. 

The only other thing this week is the truck. Its come to an end after a couple of years because of a broken frame. Its sad to see it go but I am looking forward to selling it and picking something else for Michelle.

A good couple of weeks!

Mt. Aberdeen- North Glacier

On Friday it was once again time to assemble the posse and head up into the alpine. Zack, Amitae and I had a great day up on Mt. Aberdeen in Lake Louise  swinging ice tools, belaying across newly bridged crevasses and generally just having a good time. From 6am it pretty much involved the whole day to get up to the glory rock ridge which led up to the summit where we high fived and snapped a few photos before trundling south wards into the amazing Paradise Valley and the ensuing bushwack. Once the creek was reached it was easy sailing and we made good time getting to Moraine Lake road, not before seeing a big bull moose licking his chops and staring us down  before continuing into the creek. From the road I did a quick hitch hike to our car in Lake Louise where we raided the gas station for edibles, a stellar day!

The lower tongue of the Aberdeen glacier, ice climbing in August.

On the upper glacier.

Zack and Amitae just below the bergschrund, 4 pitches left to the summit.

Zack on the small steep part with a bit of rock on the left, the best combo!

A happy team, Mt. Temple in the back ground.

Mt. Edith Cavell

On Saturday night, Michelle and I packed our packs and shot up the highway to Jasper to climb the classic East Ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell. After a quick parking lot bivy, we awoke at 3 am and hit the trail. Our friends John and Martin were also climbing on Sunday and we all launched up the ridge, enjoying the great weather and views, soaking it all in and enjoying the fine company. This was also Michelle's first big alpine climb after she broke her foot in May, it was really great that she could be up there. A really great day!

On the Approach scramble.
Michele with broken foot, all smiles.

Michelle and summit.
Tonquin Valley.

Mts. Woolley and Diadem

Last week I had the pleasure of joining my friends Amitae and Zack for a trip into the Columbia Icefields area for some classic mountaineering. We packed our bags and blasted down the parkway Thursday morning, ready for the scalding coldness of the Sunwapta River crossing. Indeed, a great time was had as we hiked up and made a stellar bivy under the routes and stars. 

When morning dawned, we made coffee in the inky night and made our way up the glacier and the big couloirs. Nice snow climbing and rock scrambling led to the final couloir, leading us to the broad col between the two mountains and after going just a little bit further and basking in the 25 degreee heat at 9 am, we pulled the plug before summiting either one. A good call as the snow was knee deep and only getting deeper. We quickly descended and broke out the coffee and lunches, after looking up at we had gone up and catching glimpses of the neighboring Mt. Alberta and other giants, we could sit back and take it all in- this is one of the best spots in the Rockies.

The Sunwapta double espresso.
The fellas at the bivy, dinner was dried food and enormous talk of the next day.
The second couloir, descending.

Wooley and Diadem. Super classics

Unamed Mountain

Looking down at Lake Louise from the Plain of the six glaciers trail.
The Impressive Mt. Lefroy.

Last week it became winter once again up in the alpine country. Zac, Amitai and mysef loaded up the car for an early start up the classic Unnamed in Lake Louise. Halfway up, the fresh snow and running water turned us around as well as a sky that had been threatening all day. A great day was had as we scrambled up and descended the frosty ridge.

Mt. Edith-South Ridge

Waren on the approach scramble.
In the big chimney at the start of the climbing-Dreamy.
Extreme relaxing on the summit
Mt. Edith

So the last few days, we have had family visiting us here in Canmore. Michelle's sister and brother in law were up from Viking, Ab with their new baby boy Ethan. We had some good meals, went for a nice hike up to Ptarmagin Cirque in K-country and all in all had a good time. Yesterday, the girls let us boys head out to Mt. Edith near banff for a classic climb. It was Waren's first time out alpine climbing and we had a great day up there.