Haunted By Ice

So today was a great day indeed in that great ice climbing mecca the ghost river valley, Alberta. Drew and I got the early start and drove in via the very new and improved "I can take my Vespa in" road, excited at the prospect of swinging the old hatchets around. The day dawned great for said climbing and soon enough we were ascending the frozen scapes.

Drew on top of "Anorexia Nervosa", a bad name for a good climb.
At this point, after doing the last pitch and belaying in the glorious sunshine, the wind picked up and flew me vertically for a few seconds, it was not enjoyable for either mind or body.
The route, a good one indeed.
Drew getting the final sticks, thanks buddy for a great day. Looking forward to some climbing and skiing after my next trip to the coast leaving Sunday.

Oh wow..Its deja Vu

Well today was a great day in the local backcountry visiting the winter simulator. Neil, Jeff and I were thankful for the winter tires as we broke trail in the 40cm on the highway with the Korean car, KIA. As we left Canmore, rains fell down and sprinkled our ambitions and made us think about our future. We thought we would "take a drive to check it out" and at the very worst have tea in a parking lot somewhere. Well the drive paid off and we enjoyed excellent early season powder conditions that were reminiscent of the, dare I say it 06/07 year. This is the year that climbers became skiers, people quit there jobs and the rockies turned into a mini version of the Selkirks where things were skied and mentioned after that they may never be skied again......Its on...sorta...maybe...hopefully!

Here we see Neil entering the white room for a little R and R.
Here we see Jeff and Neil digging in the snow trying to find reactive layers. Besides the storm snow instabilities we found the October rain crust at the very bottom. Note that there is over 100cm here and it is Nov 17! I will look more into this very interesting situation later this week.

Alpine Sliding in Real Time

So on Sunday I saddled up with Marc-Andre and Chris for a day of early season ski exploring. What a good thing to feel the stick of the skins on the snow and the familiar movement of the up-track again. Winter is my favorite season and It is upon us. We enjoyed some pretty decent snow conditions on a south aspect which was missing the Oct crust that is reeking havoc on north facing terrain. The biggest threat today was a hitting rocks which we avoided at all costs by tapping into the chi of the mountain. Chi is not like chai which is a pleasant spiced drink but is the energy of the universe emitted by all things....

Marc is an excellent skier in this photo, moments before he went "down periscope" and had a very good look at the early season snowpack.
A nice lunch break in the sun. There is almost nothing better than being in the hills with friends? Chris is in fact playing the air-ski here.
Once again, Marc enjoying the early season conditions in the Rockies. After putting in a few runs on this slope we ventured back to the car as the temperatures hiked and the hazard went up. Its nice to ski south facing areas so early in the winter without fearing for your life and ski bases. I must say at this point that it is Nov 16th and I feel like we got away with robbery!

The Moment Accelerate

What a ride its been these last few months! First and probably biggest was my transition from retail man to rep man. After 5 years on the floor as a buyer and manager I took a Job as a sales representative with my friend Rob Owens for a number of focused outdoor companies namely Patagonia, Petzl, Ambler, Sea to summit, orthsoles, Oboz, Julbo and Adventure Medical Kits. So far its been great and the learning is sure to not stop for a long, long time. I have been on the road, coffee and big grimace on hand as of late, here is a glimpse....

Lately I have really gotten the ice bug and every chance I get I have been trying to get out there and swing the tools a bit.

Early Season Louise Falls with Drew "MIB" Henman.

Grotto Mtn, Playground. The very wholesome Jen Olsen putting the rope up for Mike and I.
While in Ventura,CA for patagonia sales meetings I got the chance to head out to the fabled desert scapes that is Joshua Tree. We dodged the sun, climbed a few classics, drank some nice grapes and enjoyed great company in that desert we did. Like all S.cal climbing zones I felt like I was climbing for the first time and It was a blast to get royaly spanked on routes that Royal Robbins probably soloed in 63' with pocketed hands...soo nice!
We did stumble upon quite a scene atop of one of the formations in that O' so glorious mecca of JTree. An annual meet for San Diego climbers was taking place on the summit of intersection rock. There is something to be said for topping out on left ski track only to be met by a rag tag and rather jovial assortment of characters, I am just not sure what it is? Either way I enjoyed the candy that roller girl was handing out even though the general feel of the place gave me a feeling I have not had since all night dance parties when I was 16.

J tree is a special place, full of special people.

Mt. Victoria

So this past weekend I got the chance to join two of my great friends for a climb of Mt. Victoria.

With a perfect weather forecast we set off to Abbot hut where we ate a great dinner of peanut stirfry and enjoyed a stellar selection of spirits while enjoying the ambience of the hut and the intense windstorm outside. Mt. Victoria is a classic in mountaineering and it was great to be up there in the crisp fall air. I remember reading once that the route is mostly walking, but its fancy walking.

Jon just past the sickle about to get back on the rock. The route is mostly a scramble with a few steps of easy rock climbing and some short sections of steeper snow.
Just after the sickle.
Once again, you guessed it- The Sickle. We had a late start because we thought it would be a quick out and back to the summit but we actually had to turn around just shy as to not miss our bus ride out!
Jonson tellin' it like it is.
The infamous scree slope on the way up (pictures in reverse order). A great trip!

Craig Crag

On Saturday I got the chance to Join Marc, Michelle and Craig to a new crag being developed in a secret location known only to few people, most of which havent been heard from in a while. We had a great day dodging and soaking of the sun rays as well as climbing some great routes.

Craig on an unnamed 12+
Marc on Into the Frey 11b.

After a couple of climbs I fixed a rope and took photos for an hour or so and when returning to the ground I was basically spent! A hot day in the mountains takes its toll!!

Devils Right Hand- Yamnuska

On Friday once again we took advantage of the Autumn weather and blasted up to Yam for an ascent of the route, Devils Right Hand. I remember seeing it from a route close by and it looked just awesome. After hearing 50/50 reports about the quality, Pat and I went to have a closer look.

Pat being pensive at the belay stance.
Nice corner crack leading to the roof and soon after, the top of the cliff.
Pat on the 4th pitch.
Sea of grey stone. 
Pat starting up the third pitch.

Another stellar day on Yam. Despite some negative feedback on the route, we thought it was pretty great:good stone, safe and nice climbing. 

The Diving Board- Yamnuska

Well last week I got the chance to team up with my good friend Jason for a good route on Yamnuska.  The route Diving Board ascends a steep wall on the east side of the mountain and is one of Andy's newer routes. As usual we followed the rack instructions and brought a good size collection of gear which turned out to be a good idea because we were placing a lot of it!

Looking down from top of second pitch.
Stoked as always..
Roof on third pitch.
Jason starting up the first pitch.

The route was awesome and even had a few token hands in crack climbing sections! One of my favorites yet.

Brazeau Icefield

So on the Edmonton friends annual climbing trip the plan was hatched yet again to journey to the hallowed steeps of Mt. Robson. Given our usual luck with the conditions and weather with that route, a second plan was organized to journey up high to the Brazeau Icefield to sample some wonderful glaciated terrain and climbing.

The first day was great. Perfect temps and weather allowed us to reach a high camp at 9500 feet.
Oh oh, the weather came in and we were tentbound!

Mt. Whyte- North East Ridge

So on Friday I teamed up with a couple of friends, Amitae and Zach for a climb of that classic mountain- Bruno Engler's favourite, Mt. Whyte. The day started very well with  a double americano with the beans freshly ground outside as to not wake up Michelle at 3:00 am. We shot down the road to lake Louise in the dark and started up the quiet trail to lake Agnes and the start of the route. 

After scrambling for an hour or so to reach the climbing, we popped out through the mist and came across something that is simply magic- above the fog with all the giants poking through and not revealing their bases- Himalayan.
Easy Scrambling terrain leading to the ledge.
Big traverse ledge at 1/3 height.
Glory Spectre on a mountain pilgrimage.

We tried a few starts on the N side of the mountain and went through a bit of time before deciding to head back to avoid the daily thundershowers (which didn't happen) and make it back to laggans before closing time. I think we now know the route for next time after scoping around a bit and it would be great to go back for round 2. For me though its back to resting as I am off for a week of mountaineering on the 10th and I am still not over this flu I have- TV and Coffee!! 

Back of the Lake

We had a stellar day climbing at the back of the lake yesterday and a good time was had by all. The weather was perfect and projects were getting worked on. We "beat our heads on the rock" as my friend Greg says as we tried and flailed on a few steep climbs. Classic routes and great people is my favourite kind of time.

Mike on "Incomplete" 12+- This climbs amazingingly.

Of course, the Lake.

Mt. Tupper and Mt. Sifton- Hermit Alpine

Just got back from a great couple of days of mountaineering in that cradle of mountaineering, Rogers Pass. Jeff and I loaded up the KIA, shot down the highway bright and early with a big coffee in hand and mega stoke on the mind. We hiked up to the Hermit alpine, pitched a camp and continued up the classic west ridge of Tupper. A good dinner ensued as the clouds crept in and the scotch was sipped. Saturday dawned a bit cloudy and we sat it out before the sun arrived again. A quick loop up a ridge on Sifton and down a snowfield before heading back to camp, brewing up a nice coffee and blasting down the trail to the awaiting cold beers in the creek. Another good trip to the Selkirks with good company.

Jeff doing his alpine moves.
Wonderful Sifton ridge.
Camp in paradise.

Tupper.

West Ridge of Tupper.
Classic times on classic routes and a good start to the season.