Ghostly Daydreams

I had the luck/good fortune/joy of joining some friends on a climbing adventure in the Ghost River Wilderness area on the eastern slopes of the Canadian Rockies. We had an excellent time...

The Owen's, Very good company. Dinner was an amazing pasta with bacon, sausage, spinach and other goodies. A nice organic Malbec accompaniment was also enjoyed by people wearing patagonia.
Erin on the super-ultra-mega-classic, "Consolation" on the Wully Wall, Ghost River.
Ms. Urton making the moves on the arete look easy.
After Consolation, Rob and I teamed up for a 2 hour car to car ascent of the classic Cyclops. We literally ran up the trail in spots, racked up in 5 min and did this amazing almost pure crack climb. Both pitches delivered and we were pretty stoked to get this in that night! On the way down to the car while trying to slam a beer and again running I must have slipped a dozen times. The ladies had an amazing dinner and campfire waiting for us when we came back.

The next day we slept in, lounged around and did a couple of sport pitches in the area before driving home.

A very good time.

Home and Away Team

Well it is great to be home. I have had the chance to revel in the vastness of it all over the last few days time. Doing some climbing, going on a great solo road ride, being with friends and partaking in thunderstorm espresso sessions. A couple of things have come up that may or not be of interest to you, dear reader:

Claw-Hand

I had the great pleasure of having a Back of the lake day with Drew on the weekend. It was a high motivation day where our goal was to climb 10 routes in the hallowed halls of quartz climbing. All was going well, the standard "re-onsighting" of known routes and classics, getting pile driven on moderately thin clip ups and generally having a reeeealy good time. The moment came to do one of my favourite pitches of all time, "Duck of Death". I tied in and casted off. By the 3rd bolt my thumbs started to conjure mutiny on the high seas as they locked into my palms and refused to budge, save for my efforts of forcing them open by pushing them against the stone or leg. Yikes! after a stormy battle with the claw on route, I clipped the chains and lowered. After a small rest we warmed down on an easier route where I once again enjoyed the subtile nature of the claw. Drew found this all very entertaining and as he was also pretty much done from a great day, we ventured forth to Lagaan's and the awaiting espresso and baked good combo. After a bit of net research it appears that dehydration is the key factor. I hadn't had a lot to drink that morning and the day before I had an hour long hill session on the road bike. I will be more cautious of this mysterious condition from now on! 8 routes completed.

The National

Recently bought another National Album, the Virginia EP. It is blowing my mind with the thoughtful and captivating lyrics over the usual melodies and sweet guitar licks from this talented band. It has been my soundtrack over the last few days.

Mastering the Art of living

I have been thinking as always about this, some recent thoughts:

- Focus completely on your conversation's with people, I find I never regret this. It is easy to be distracted. A hard one.

-Simple things are the best. Dog walks with your significant other, the perfect shot of espresso, moonlight on your arm while driving in the desert...

-A good Mary Oliver Quote that resonated:

"To live in this world, you must be able to do three things: to love what is mortal; to hold it against your bones knowing your own life depends on it; and, when the time comes to let it go, to let it go"

Hope all is well friends.

Range of Light- A week in the Sierra's

Wow! Just back this evening from an amazing week of climbing with my good friends G and Jon in the storied "Range of Light", the Sierra Nevada mountains of California.

We loaded up the venerable KIA for its last voyage, filled up on espresso and hit the long road. 24 hours later we were loitering around Bishop, drinking yet more espresso, eating Mexican food and securing a spot for a Mt.Whitney climb using the parks "Lottery" system. We received a lucky break from the friendly park service and were granted a quick and easy pass into the region for 4 days, first try! The rest of that first day we packed our bags, collected the necessary accoutrements for adventure and settled into a campsite at Whitney Portal. We read, ate burgers, told a few bad jokes and wandered around taking photos and scouting for animals. We were on free time and our minds were ablaze with the thought of high alpine granite!

On top of Cathedral Peak, a really stellar and classic peak in the Tulomne zone. Yosemite high country is a place to find your inner power animal.
Ever sat at a sub alpine campground sipping rare micro brews while enjoying a view like this one? Check!
Granite hallways on the super-cool East Buttress of Mt.Whitney, AKA Peewee Route.
The terrain unfolds into ledges, splitter cracks and neat-o terrain. All the while the sky is a mysterious dark blue colour?
Near the top of Whitney. Engulfed in the wonder of it all..
The Whitney Zone. Day Needle, Keelor Needle and Mt. Whitney. I get goosebumps thinking about climbing here gain- SO much fun to be had..
We awoke early one morning and I ran off with camera in hand to try and capture this daily event. The sun exploded from the east and painted the landscape..my words can't express..
Whitney camp. Marmots actually rule the show here but with enough trickery-pockery, you might end up with most of your food intact when you arrive back from a day of climbing! or not...
Jon and G, two very good friends and very smart guys (approximately 2 x smarter than me) that always have interesting anecdotes, scientific facts, obscure movie trivia and philosophy to share with me.
"Put your hands on the wheel, let the golden age begin"- Beck Hanson

What can I say, every time I go to this range I am left with a fuzzy feeling and I am always wanting more, more, MORE! Thanks for the great trip fellas!

Vancouver NOW redux

Land ahoy! I just arrived home from 11 days in the Vancouver zone. Working, playing a little and enjoying the company of friends both new and old. Photos say it best...

Patagonia?
North Vancouver beach bouldering and beer tasting session.
Although short, this boulder problem delivered the pump monster. What resulted was "t-rex" arm...
I work with a really great surf shop in Victoria called HTO, we co-oped on a film screening that went off like 1999! What a great event and showing, over 200 folks came down..and lots of patagoniacs!
The mobbing is imminent...!

Although work filled, I managed a couple of good road rides, a full day of climbing with friend and colleague Julian of ROI as well as a nice morning in the boulders. I camped under the chief for a few nights and it really reminded me of my summers there as a young fellow. Chasing shadows in the forest, trying really hard to climb hard and living out our dreams..

Road Sounds

What I am listening to on the road right now..updated from the starbucks in Kamloops.

The National- Boxer
The Roots- Dilla Joints
Beck Sea Change- I have listened to this album more than any other. Love, loss, introspection, anger and contentment are covered by Beck as he wrote this in the turbulence of a long overdue breakup.
2 Pac- All Eyez On Me- Say what you will about Gangster Rap, the talent of the man in his prime as one of the most driven and respected rappers of the nineties is apparent in this, one of the best selling hip hop albums of all time. A good and guilty pleasure...
Neelix- You're under control- A good sci trance specialty.

Hayden "H" Pasemko

Well I got to spend a good bit of time with my Sister and Brother from a different mother this weekend at their house in Spruce Grove. One of the highlights as always is seeing my sweet little nephew Hayden. Man I love this little fella. Other highlights included an afternoon at the West Edmonton Mall World Waterpark (WEMWWP), a great dinner prepared by Carrie including grilled asparigus, scalloped potatoes and grilled pork and more. Thanks for the great hospitality!
Carzy times running from inside the tupperwear cupboard, back to me and then back to cupboard. Repeat!

Patagonia has infiltrated this town too..

Reusable and Disposable Hero's

The ubiquitous "reusable" cheaply made shopping bag

Well my good friend Jon recently made a comment in regards to the outrageous saturation of "re-usable" bags out in the market place. I have been thinking about this lately too and as I stood in line at Subway yesterday ordering 8 footlongs for the staff at Valhalla pure, I was accosted by a sign stating that with every kids meal purchase you would receive a "free" reusable lunch bag. Upon inspection, this bag was made of cheap materials, was sewn with single stitch lines and included shoddy at best carrying handles. Free for who I ask?

The reality is that having a reusable bag program at a retail store gives the consumer a green impression of the business. Add to that the fact that people love receiving something for free that has a higher perceived value than the previous option. You can see why this interesting case has developed. A quick web search reveals thousands of hits for "reusable" shopping bags, most are suppliers. I must announce that I too have collected a small army of shopping bags with "go green" or "save the planet" silk screened on the side that have only lasted 1 or 3 trips to the store. These bags have a bigger footprint than any plastic bag and if not made well, have a tremendously bad overall impact when compared to said simple plastic bag. Especially when it goes into the trash after a few uses. There are certainly a few companies that make bags that last, search out the bags that are well made and BUY them if you have too..the savings will not be outright but soon it will pay off as you will have the same ones for many years.

Bags available in Canmore that I have seen/used and my opinion:

Safeway: Black recycled fabric Bag- Good- Lasts- 1.00

Sobeys: Green plastic bags with pictures of fruit- Good- lasts, great gear bag too- 2.00

MEC- Shopping Bag - By far the best one I have ever seen. I have used this bag for anything from grocery hauler to moving heavy ski gear to and from the car on about 15 day trips. 10.00

Sea To Summit- Sil Nylon Bag- Sil Nylon shopping bag that packs to a golf ball size. Very tough and light.

Generic Cotton Bags- You have seen many organic cotton bags out there and generally these are awesome and last longer that any of the sobeys/safeway variety. Patagonia makes a good version.

VPO Big Bag- A good bag but bad handles. Don't overload. Recycled materials. Free with big purchase.


Pick reusable shopping bags like you do a good shirt or pair of jeans. Look at the way they are made: the seams, the fabric and ask yourself if you REALLY do need it for free?

A Week In Ventura

This last week was spent on the grounds of Patagonia HQ; Ventura, California. A fast paced week was had with sales meetings, bowling sessions and a weekend in Bishop for some stellar rock climbing with Rob and Regan (our talented customer service rep out of Reno). The Sierra Nevada range as well as the pacific Ocean have their draws and it is great to visit the land of plenty from time to time.


Patagonia flagship store, Ventura.
The Tinshed

Owens Gorge, scene of amazing routes and great times. Evening light.
Rob and Regan, a great group.
Rob bowling a perfect 78 at the Ventura lanes. I don't know why but bowling is the natural thing to so in southern Califonia. It is a great thing when your job becomes something so enjoyable.

Summer

Well its time for me to stop thinking about ski mountaineering and time for me to focus on SUMMER! I finished up the season with 3 great days and I am stoked. As everyone either seems to be still skiing amazing lines or have already made the complete switchover to summer, I'm going to plan a road trip, fire up the BBQ or climb some grey limestone up high somewhere in the sunshine. After 52 "days"* of touring, I am happy, content and ready for a t shirt instead of fleece and layers.

Right now I am sitting in the Victoria Airport, planning a trip to California for work and basically reliving the great season of skiing and how wonderful it is to be in a place where the seasons carry the blessing of many options for our little chance at greatness. Here is to everyone getting out and enjoying themselves.

Godspeed, friends.

photo: Kyle and Me in Cuba- 2009

* Anything from 4 to 12 hours!

Mt. Chester North Face Ski descent

Had a great morning with friends Ryan and Andrew in K country climbing and skiing the beautifully sculpted north face of Mt. Chester. A classic steep descent in the Southern Divide.

A very striking and intimidating view of the face (from the road on the way home). The gully is the obvious shaded feature to the left of the summit.

Ryan AKA "bootpackin' machine" was the man this AM, putting in some serious time up front.
About to launch into the velvety turns.
What we found was mostly good snow with the odd small section of ice to keep it UFC . Here we see Terminator Wexler making it all come together in the deep, steep powder turns of the day.
A more true perspective on the face. This is one of the nicest lines I have had the chance to ski in K country. Thanks to the boys for a stellar day in the mountains. It is amazing that the conditions are so good right now as on the way out everything around looked skiable and still under the mask of winter. The ski season is alive and kicking for those with a penchant for early starts, copious amounts of coffee and a dream in the brain.

North West Face, Observation Sub Peak

I have always driven by and wanted to ski this neat-o looking gully/face feature on Observation Sub Peak. Well today was the day and Drew, Zach and I launched into the alpine for some good touring and some OK dust on gnarly crust skiing.

Here is the North West aspect of Observation Sub Peak near bow summit. Our line of ascent was the ridge (sometimes walking, sometimes skiing) and our descent was the face below the prominent notch in the ridge.
Booting up in the early morning hours.

Wonderful summit ridge and bow summit environs.

Dropping into the launch pad..
Glory awaits at your ski pole tips..

We had gnarly dust on crust conditions but it was a good experience and indeed a great place to be on a sunny Saturday morning. It's truly a great thing to check out a line you've been looking at for so long and soak up the relative obscurity of it all.

Here is to checking out lines, good days with friends and more skiing in May! I hope you are all well and enjoying these wonderful spring days.

Bow Summit Couloirs- Film by Nicholas Rapaich

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L144taJ4_wY

Vancouver

Well a few weeks ago I spent 14 days in the Vancouver area for work. Most of which I stayed with my very good friend, Leigh. Just a few shots from the visit and of the area.

Leigh and me goofing off as per usual.
Wonderful baristas live in Vancouver. There are high quality cafe's everywhere. This place was Leigh's favourite and is now mine!
Docked work boat in Nanaimo. I had a few hours between meetings so I grabbed my camera and went for a walk along the harbour looking for an espresso shack. I found neat photo opportunities in these old workboats. What was cool was that these boats get repainted every year or two and the really old boats have a very weathered and "lived" look about them with the many layers of paint.

Bow Summit "Integrale"

Well a small team assembled at a gentlemanly hour not long ago to hike the soaring heights in search of great weather, great turns and if all turned well, great powder snow. Nick, Jason and I met at 7 am in Canmore with the intent of couloir skiing. After driving almost to Mt. Murchison and looking at the usual suspects, we decided on a sort of "Integrale" starting at the popular bow summit and venturing to the peaks above, hopefully ending on a summit.....!

At the top of the usual bow summit terrain.
Jason.
Jason near summit ridge.
Entering the Couloir, entry to a wonderful snow basin above and a nice descent.
We enjoyed a nice, fast ascent ending on an outlier of Mt. Jimmy Simpson. On the way down we had great, deep April powder turns. I thought the powder skiing was over and it probably is but its great to get surprised by these wonderful conditions.

Small movie here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L144taJ4_wY

Thanks for the great day guys!