Road Sounds Redux

Lately I have been traveling a lot. Some for the operatives of work and some for the simple joy of road tripping with friends, dogs, coffee and more. Either way you look at it, I have spent more time away from home this year than ever, giving me a new scope on the coffee shop landscape in BC as well as an ever growing music collection; here dear reader is a short laundry list of the albums heard on my last trip brought to you once again from the Starbucks in Kamloops..


M83 Saturday = Youth
Melodic and eery residual 80's sounds for you, very good. Described as opening a love letter from the 80's. Can't remember where I got that..



Mariachi El Bronx
Interesting blend of tightly knit Mariachi band mixed with "cake" like vocals, good lyrics. Sometimes disturbing/compelling and the music is so damn catchy. Good.
Amon Tobin : Permutations
An electronic classic, when Mike Pollard first played this for me I was floored. Ambient alien sounds mixed with rock solid drum and base.
Murs and 9th Wonder - Murrays Revenge.
A good rap album from Mur's, a departure from his earlier stuff, more introspective and thought full. less ego and gun clapping.
Steamin' with the Miles Davis Quintet.
What can I say...probably a top ten for me..extra brilliance in that in addition to Walkin' and relaxin', was recorded before the switch of record labels and to essentially fulfill a contratctual agreement. They did a few of these albums, the last Miles Davis' cool jazz works in a matter of months. They are all considered standard albums and jazz wonderfreund. Miles went on to set his own perimeters with the explosive sounds of Bitches Brew and others..

Girl Talk - ALL DAY
A mash up classic and a genre defining album. Crazy for the uninitiated but brilliant noise to others. I like.

Paul Mailloux

My Dad was a great man. He loved, laughed and lived as good or better than most I know.

He loved Carrie and I, not one to say it with words- He showed it. Cross province moves, random house repairs when you didn't even know he stopped by and lots of phone calls "just cause" to see what was new in your world. When you spoke to my dad, he really wanted to know how you were doing, he was just an easy guy to talk to. A lot of people told me how much they liked him and spoke of a genuine kindness in his heart, if there is one quality I will remember of my Dad it would be this.

When I was 16 I thought I knew everything there was to know about climbing mountains and we just so happened to be in California and in the famous halls of Yosemite on a family vacation. Already infatuated with everything in sight, I gazed upon the 1000m walls of El Capitan and told my dad at once what we were going to do, I said "Pops! I will make you a harness. I've got a few biners and some rope- lets go and climb that thing!". Without much protest, we were at the base of the Captain staring up into the void. My Dad with his homemade harness and me leading off with nothing more then two allowance's worth of climbing gear and a dream in my mind. I looked down at my dad at a hard section and I could see him egging me on, I slipped and he caught me with the rope. Just like that our summit fever was gone. We retired to a burger stand nearby and talked about bigger ideas, it was one of those great memories I have of him. He was supportive like that, with his actions.

I have a lot of good memories of him.

During the last few years he developed a penchant for travelling. As he packed for places like Russia, Cambodia, Vietnam and the Dominican Republic I was amazed at his pragmatism and "take it as it comes" attitude. He would disappear for a month or so, usually befriending a local family who he would stay with and become friends with over time, helping around the house and sharing stories, living simply. He spoke of these people often, he loved to meet new people.

Sometime when kids grow up they waver at the idea of being like their parents. I Cannot say the same about my Dad. He was certain, caring and attentive to almost everyone. Its been a few months since he passed on but I think about him everyday. Godspeed pops.

Selkirk's Avalanche to Uto

Spent the last few days soaking it all up and doing some fancy walking amongst good friends in Rogers Pass. I have always been in love with long ridges. Looking up at the mountains as a kidlet I remember thinking that you might be inclined to walk along them and connect miles and miles into one long adventure. W a y before I knew anything about climbing, ridges spoke to me. Hell they yelled at me in a way that I couldn't leave in the pages of ignorance. Add some stories from Peter Crofts mega traverses during in the 90's and you have a sure fire recipe for a good time. Just lace up your approach shoes, throw in a anemic rack and pack as much calories into your lightest pack. Now wait for the best weather and go! And don't forget to strap on cause' its going to be a lot of FUN!
We decided to try the Avalanche to Uto traverse and if time permitted, a hot lap on Sir Donald would be an inviting smorgasbord for a finish..
G on the traverse..glory spotted here..
The meat of the trip with Eagle, Uto and Sir Donald visible. We had a high bivi at the eagle/avalanche col as these trips with Jon and G are as much about the climbing as the disturbing and sometimes unconventional anecdotes, conversation and company.
Bivi times, hard times, you know i've had my share..
We opted for a pass on Sir D and headed down to the camp ground near the burbling Illecilewet river. On our last day we had designs for the classic ridge on Tupper but after having showery scenes in the alpine for our future, we opted instead for a nifty alpine circuit around hermit meadows. Great times with great friends in the cradle of mountaineering.

Temple Crag

Another great trip into the "range of light", this time to climb the monsterous north east side of Temple Crag..so dreamy..If you like pitch after pitch of splitter cracks, blue skies and perfect weather - I suggest you check out the Sierra East side. I have decided that a year should not pass without visiting this range..true story...
Temple Crag
First Tower
Matt is enjoying himself here..
Sent! We packed up camp and dashed out of the area just as big fat rain drops started to fall, stinging our faces and hands. We made it to Bishop in time to sample some fine mexican food.

Our trip was marred only by the daily thunderstorms that were both extremely violent and beautiful.

Thanks to Matt for the company, laughs and for holding the rope. Cant wait for the next trip buddy!

Vacation

Tacofino, the best tacos have come to Vancouver.
Campsite 63. Chief.
Crack climbing is awesome.
Howesound.
Camping out of the car has its advantages.

Huber- baum

Now suddenly there was nothing but a world of cloud, and we three were there alone in the middle of a great white plain with snowy hills and mountains staring at us; and it was very still; but there were whispers.

-Black Elk

life and times

Have been taking it easy over the last week or so. Recently returned from multiple stringed together weeks of work - its just great to be home enjoying home cooked food, great espresso, dogs, climbing and riding with friends and loved ones. Some random photos and thoughts along this vein..

My steads. Recently tuned, upgraded and ready to go. Amazing how these 'investments in health' can provide so many good times. They are truly, good times providers.
I have recently upgraded the man cave to have more storage per square foot. Please don't be envious of the man cave...there is no use. Nope. not a bit. Yes, the man cave has grown over the years to embody everything that is good and pure in this world. Thats right. pure.
A recent anaerobic endevour on the flanks of Ha ling and area known locally as the 'highline trail'. Have been enjoying many linkups here lately, you can easily do 3 hours of riding on this side of the valley if you want to. Altough you can see mountain mercatto(home to stellar espresso) the whole time which can pose a problem with motivational values...here is Ryan and Zach, amigos.
Recently, Erin and I went to Saskatoon to enjoy some company with friends and partake in an evening at the Saskatoon jazz festival. Saskatoon is one of those great cities that people like to talk about with a far-off look in their eye; better times, simper times or maybe just the great and independently tinted dining options, cafes and art at every street corner that create this effect. Either way, its a great place to be on a sunny weekend. We had a really good time shopping, eating, packing light and enjoying some culture outside mountain view.
Yes, I have been climbing and slowly getting into summer shape. Un-injured this year I am expecting big things AND also lots of fun. A few days cragging in the US as well as a few local days including this one, climbing half way up guides rock before ensuing a 45 min, Iphone protecting deluge rappel with Zach.

Yeah friends! I hope life is good and you can enjoy the summer ahead.

The Brunser

Had a great day in Squamish with my friend Cory on Sunday climbing some classics in Murrin Park and scratching our granite itch, what an itch it is. Murrin is my favourite cragging spot in Squamish, hands down. The long technical and fantastical gear battles on Nightmare Rock, the hope of one day leading the shoulder eating "hypertension" and the many super-classics like washington bullets and the Brunser Overhang. Oh... The Brunser....

Everytime I come to Murrin I am drawn to this route. The headjamming, the delicate smearing, the burl and mostly the thrill of latching the "thank god" bucket hold on the top of the route, cutting your feet loose and screaming for allah, eternal sunshine or just the joy of the french fries you will soon be eating. Brunser has got to be one of my favourites there.

Bouldering

I love bouldering. I have spent many hours doing so. I hope to spend many, many more. Thats right. Being from the Rockies it is not often that one gets to partake in such endeavours so I am usually tickled pink when I can get away to a warm locale for work and squeeze, crimp and slap my way up a few boulders...This past week in Salt lake was no exception and much fun was had by a very motivated group.

Zcaaack!
Mike on a very, very nice problem - getting intimate with the nuances of this micro grip.
Slap!
Tools of the trade.

times recent

last week, work took me to the Okanagan where sunshine, glorious rock climbing and cupcakes abound in bountiful measures. Not necessarily in that order, though.

Erin, Iphone owner, mi amour
Jason, Banburry camp, Skaha Lake. As you technophiles may have already registered, it is clear that there is a 'hipstomatic" Iphone app in use here. While supporting the hipster image with rolled jeans, experimental facial hair, dark rimmed glasses and perhaps some light reading like Tolstoy in the back pocket of slim fitting jeans, one must also have a phone that prepares your images like the above.

Mi Familia.

Next week I hope to go skiing again after almost a month off..I can't wait

Balfour Zone

Spent a couple of great days based out of Balfour hut logging some miles on the glaciers, peaks and sweet terrain of this area.

Popes Peak and the Cardinal

Today we skied up to the col of Popes peak and summited the minor un-named peak immediately east, which this day we elected to call cardinal peak. Some great folks teamed up for this one and it was a pleasure logging about 1800m during two laps of this great ski region. We were very throttled by the amount of snow in the zone and it being pretty much a green light, we were able to ski a couple of non-traditional lines. Thanks ski friends.

El' Presidente Traverse

Yesterday I had a fantastical time with Craig on a tour that I have been wanting to do for years, circumvent the president from Emerald lake. It starts with a 1600m climb (skin and bootpack) up to president pass via emerald creek basin, down to the stanley mitchell meadows than hook back around to Emerald Pass and enjoy a 1400 m descent back to the basin and soon after, the lake and your car. Craig and I have been waiting for the right conditions for a month or so and besides a punchy (read: waist deep posthole) bootpack in a couple of places, they were perfect- including two great shots you just have no choice but to ski the heck out of. One of the best days of skiing I have had.

Climbing to President Pass
Craig in "tiger country" on the headwall
President Pass, with Craigs Canada flag that has been everywhere with him. Might as well whip it out on Prez pass.
Nice knee deep conditions on the Prez glacier, just ridonculous. No wind and crowds today.
Oh the joy of it all.
Craig feeling the burn on the way back up to Emerald Pass
Day glo thoughts and caviar dreams, Emerald pass.
The 5600 foot shot down to Emerald Basin
Traverse for about 800 m and discover this baby- about 1000 m of dreamboat fall line- and you're the captain.

Water was a precious commodity on this sojourn. Very elated after a good mission.

Thanks Craig for a great day and thanks for wanting to do this for a second time!