Tuesday, September 01, 2020

by fair means: mountaineering on the open groad

A few months ago an idea struck me, simple yet outrageous: to approach the upper Elaho high country via bicycle from my house in Squamish. I kept the concept a secret for the most part, dropping subtle clues here and there to friends that might be keen on such an endeavour. It would be the classic 'multi-stage' tour as big missions can be; the bike ride of almost 100km, gaining the treeline at 1400m and finally, kilometers of magical alpine ridgelines the likes of which are unique to the coast range of BC, returning whence we came in a true out and back fashion. An alpine climbing trip by fair means.

I zeroed in on a few special peaks that we could attempt to climb including Mt. John Clarke, Mt. Tinniswood and Mt. Casemont - three classic yet anti classic objectives along the high divide between the upper Elaho and the far reaches of Princess Louisa Inlet. As always, long google earth sessions ensued and after a time, I was reasonably convinced we could cover a lot of the terrain in a 5 to 6 day return trip and have a great time as a result....I started to plant some more serious seeds.

Julian is one of my favorite partners for these types of trips, always up for a long day in the hills and over the years we have shared many great times together. Almost as soon as I mentioned the idea, he was in. We started to plan some rough details as the weeks went by and then by happenstance, during a bike ride with one of my main riding pals and good friends, Chris Christie, I mentioned the idea and asked if he'd like to join. After spurting out a couple of the details Chris cut me off - 'Ya I am in'.  I started to get excited as the group formed and all the details for adventure were worked out - I was confident this would be a highlight of the summer - just great.

The day of departure dawned grey and uncertain in terms of weather but the outlook couldn't be more positive for the days ahead both in terms of the clearing trend and our excitement. As we rolled down the pavement out of town I glanced at Julian and Chris, I couldn't have been happier. I was exactly where I wanted to be, at the start of the an ambitious outing with some really great friends.

Over the next 5 days we rode our bikes just shy of 200km total, ascended about 3500 m and travelled almost 90km on foot over the week ascending Mt. John Clarke and Loquits Peak along the way. Our initial goal of ascending Mt. Tinniswood was eventually put aside as the realities of our approach became clear. I could blame it on our slow start on our second day due to being soaked through from rain the previous day. The truth is it was probably just a little too far for our 3 days in the alpine. I think if we had a 4th day we could have had a better chance of reaching the mighty T but hey, we will be back some day, it's just too beautiful up there to never return. 

Highlights would certainly include a sunset that I will never forget; splashing azure and chrome on the ocean below and the peaks around us as we sat in out high camp, mosquitos and flies carried away by the gentle breeze while we sipped our cocktails. A moon so strong it caused both Julian and I to consider rallying the group to 'get rolling!' at 2 am, the thought of moon light travel so tantalizing. The same moon would light up the mica in the granite across the valley the next evening so that it would appear to be electric or on fire, convincing us there were 'lights on' in the mountain sides. At one time, Chris was positioned on a high ridge as a steady breeze blew low clouds past him and all around as he stood motionless, sun backlit. Miles of perfect white bleached granite speckled with tarns, perfectly clear and warm to touch like hand drawn baths, perfect travel around each corner and interesting all the while. Jumping into Loquits lake, ice bobbing on the opposite shore for a cool down after a long day in the hills, laughing and seeing who might stay in the longest. 

Maybe my favourite memory was on the last day,  cruising down the 'trail' through the steep timber letting the experiences shared along with the distant memory of leaving on bikes only days ago from Squamish settle in. We arrived at a perfect camp near a clear river at our stashed bikes in a landscape of burnt old growth cedar and fir, the sun well below the horizon as we set up and quietly went through the routine of dinner and relaxing. I remember a moment as it was getting dark, taking in the last part of the day, the bright stars breaking through first. I could faintly make the outlines of the trees, soon the night sky shining bright with starlight and the promise of another day ahead. My friends laughing as we had our last bit of spirits and toasted another great trip. That will be hard to forget.

Thanks to Julian and Chris for the great outing, great nature and friendship!

Returning home after a great trip, along the Squamish Main FSR.

Descending from upper Sims creek to Elaho Creek.

Our last campsite on the shore of Sims Creek



Rounding Mt. John Clarke


Miles of perfect granite.
Our camp is visible on the ridge center left.

Princess Louisa Inlet below.


Chris on ridge.
Camp site below.

Mt. Tinniswood as viewed from John Clarke.



Summit of Mt. John Clarke. An easy peak that was ascended without difficulty.


En route to Loquits peak.
On the Bon Bon Glacier, who named this!



This rock was very special, wazy and perfectly solid. Made for some fun scrambling.




Later I had to convince Julian he stood on top of this boulder, we are both stubborn.



Ascending from Bug Lake on day 2.


Bug Lake is full of welcoming hosts.
The devils club is easily avoidable.

These two 'twin firs' are on the ascent to Bug Lake and are very special.





At the start of the trip!