pulpit zone and getting up early.

Another adventure in that fantastic pulpit zone today. This place has been sort of in the quiet for the last few years but that doesnt seem the case now, and for good reason! Today there were 20 or so people enjoying the fruits, fine by me - always good to run into mountain kin and besides, getting up early pretty much always ensures first turns ;-). I have just shared the only trick I have!

On the approach through 40 cm of storm snow..
Ty and Zach, great friends and partners in crime. Taking repose after a valiant trail breaking effort.
Uh huh...
Yup...


Well maybe we will have another 'Canadian Rockies Selkirks" kind of year as it is sure shaping up that way...warm storms, minimal PWL's and no -30!

Enjoy ski friends!

raven speaks, tells us to shred.

storm skiing

I love storm skiing. There is simply something magical about it. The static quiet of the storm, the childhood wonder of a snow filled night and maybe most important - the deep powder turns.

Last winter the best of such trips was with Craig, 'stuck' in Rogers Pass for a few days while we skied our brains out. Always the first out and usually the last back we would string together big days of glorious powder skiing, trail breaking and synapse firing.


Criag at the top of 8812, Bruins Pass. We decided to go high the first day..we could feel the coming storm and knew it would be good..if we were lucky the highway might just close..
The RAV after 3 days..we stayed for 5 and logged about 30000 feet of vertical...man oh man its good. Godspeed and happy storm skiing to all!

Happy Holidays!

going coastal

I have been pleasantly immersed in a very focused work effort on the coast lately. All night drives, emailing till 1 am and back to back meetings has been 'de rigour'. This trip has seen me in kelowna, Nanaimo, Victoria, Squamish and now Vancouver to the fantastical Granville Island Hotel. All has not been work however, I have made an effort to clear the weekends to connect with friends for some great ski touring. The ski quality can only be described as 'marginal' but the views, travel and company has been all time. Here is a small taste of the last while..
glacier markings - Spearhead Glacier en route to Phalanx Mtn

Husume on right, Corona bowl on left.
All's well that ends well.

Cori breaking over the top of the blackcomb glacier en route to the classic pitch, Husume.
The eyes have it..
Julian and Martin during the final bootpack to the top of the little diamondhead, Garibaldi Park.
Same..

the powder and the glory

Yesterday I was not planning to go skiing at all, in fact I was planning on a focused driving session to Vernon to setup for a couple of days of work. I actually made a mental note "don't go skiing" the night before. For no other reason than I was booked into an unfamiliar space in Vernon and so with that, uncertainty weighed in as to the set up time involved. I have definitely been pummeled by this feature in the past. Going skiing meant a potential all nighter of set up followed by very energetic presentations the following day - doable but approaching full-on. Not skiing meant no skiing and well....no skiing..


Long story short, I went skiing.

When I turned the bend at the pass I pretty much had my mind made up. I sped into the visitors center, grabbed a permit for the Griz, changed out of my Levi's and into my ski gear and soldiered up at a rugged pace.

I reached the alpine and could hardly believe my eyes, 500M of un tracked POW lay before me...did I say U N T R A C K E D? Yup.

I wasn't expecting much but man o' man Ullr was there to help me wit this mission..





I shroped the main path like Han Solo, hooting and hollering past others on the up track, others skiing down and who knows what else. I was too busy tapping into my power animal's leg strength and enjoying the moment, laughing and giggling all the way down.

At the Modern Cafe in Revelstoke I enjoyed a great espresso/panini combination and settled into the idea of driving once again..

preparedness

Over the past few years I have had the fortune or miss-fortune of being at a few semi-major accident scenes. Both times an immobilized skier/climber needed to be secured, comforted for up to 1 hour and supported while waiting for the cavalry to appear. I've been lucky in that others on the scene had a radio or sat phone, guides tarp or other essential tools to get the ball rolling, even if I didn't....

My "FA kit/emergency kit" ready for the pack. A lightweight first aid kit, bivi bag and a 12'' ski strap keeping it all together...

Since then I have put a lot of thought into the minimum "SOL" kit to have on all outings....

The emergency bivi bag from adventure medical kits is a good piece. Super light, reflective, waterproof and a decently effective in keeping one person semi-comfortable while waiting for the sound of the rotor blades. I know people (Rob Owens ;-) that have used it as a full service bivi bag on alpine climbs.

www.adventuremedicalkits.com/product.php?product=144&catname=Shelter&prodname=SOL%20Emergency%20Bivvy

I always bring a light and somewhat minimalist first aid kit with me into the mountains. This with the idea that all we need to do is stabilize the victim and wait for the big help to arrive with more sophisticated tools and means. For long trips I will beef it up (extra gauze, tape to change dressings, more pain killers, antihistamines and maybe wound irrigation) to be more self reliant. I don't typically bring a splint as ski poles, branches, etc are usually available, not ideal but works in a pinch. The below is a list of whats inside, a blend between emergency and FA tools.

1) SPOT transceiver/ELB - There were two uses of this product last year in the Rockies resulting in rescues. It is light and more reliable than radios which rely on line of sight repeater towers for use. It needs a reasonably clear line of sky though..
2) lighter
3) Gauze and tape
4) gloves
5) Moleskin
6) Pain killers (ibuprofen here but I also bring some heavy hitters for major pain management)

Whats not shown here:

7) G3 Bone Saw - This thing is awesome, a great snow saw for pit use and also amazing at wood cutting. last February, I used the bone saw to cut about 7, 10-30 cm diameter trees down to open up a landing space for a 407 which was en route for an evacuation. Great purchase.

8) Voile ski strap, you can use this for binding repairs, splinting and so much more. Last week a boot buckle failed in the field and we were able to use the mighty orange strap as a quick fix. Ivo felt solid enough to keep skiing all day on it!

Jurry rigged boot buckle saves the day!


Happy trails!

the unbearable lightness

We assembled last week for the first of many trips to the pass this season. It has been a while since I last got out with my friend Ty and along with Ivo and Zach, had a great day chasing shadows in the alpine. A nice clean line down 8812 and a quick lap up Balu sealed the day with nice boot top wind pressed pow from top to bottom..
Sometimes one photo is enough to sum up a day of skiing.

Five Fingers, bow summit

A good day in the Rockies today....
Not bad skiing in the Rockies Nov 14, not much of a base but if you exhibit a jedi touch like Zach here, your edges and bases are saved.
There was an uptrack going into this shallow roll and thank jeebus these guys were OK, be careful out there!

Great first day out on the skis this season, made better by great company and of course, Chief.

Ranger Creek

This man loves his new primus bottle.
Getting stoked for R&D!

caviar dreams

The Hulk - Sierra California.

I lust for this mountain like few others.

shoulder season that wasn't

Typically in October and November we would be in a state of limbo, minds a blaze with winter possibilities and nostalgic for summer past. This year it seems there is no "in-between" as the ice climbing is decent, you can STILL go rock climbing if you want to and the biking is all time. Where did that shoulder season go? Truth is it was there for a fleeting moment, a week or so where it was just not happening in the mountains for anyone. This is a somewhat biased viewpoint however, yup - I was lucky enough to be In Colorado, California and the west coast of Canada for most of the season in question. Did I mention I was with some very good people and ate some super-amazing dinners? Double yup. Read on...

Ranger creek with Jeff Mac on Oct 23. What a great day inside the winter simulator. Drove up the road with the KIA with the all seasons on (read: 1 season) and had a mini epic in a full blown squall gripping the divide. We actually drove right by the parking lot and ended up almost at highway 40 before we even clued in to our blunder. Could have been the coffee or the whiteout, not sure. I was driving so there you go. Amazing day!
Hit the road with good friend Jason of jbmountaindesigns.blogspot.com to tour the coast of Canada. J is working with Rob and I as a tech rep and that is just damn good news for everyone. I will not tell the tail of this photo although I will tell you it was on the northern tip of Vancouver Island and ended at an interesting local halloween party..
I am dreaming of this right now, mid winter storm skiing in the pass...might make the trip there on Wed to bang about..folks have already been out and have lapped the alpine a gazillion times by now I am sure. A good early season for all.
Jason on the Sunshine Coast, BC. If you haven't been here it is worth an inspection. Some stellar mountain biking and a flourishing redneck meets hippie scene topped off by a coffee shop on every corner - is that heaven?
Colorado - Rob O and I shot up the classic Yellow Spur in Eldorado Canyon amidst the hustle of a work voyage. This route is GREAT! I mean really really great even if you include the descent which we botched big time. Nifty stone and really cool history.

All for now.

Winter Clothing System

Well its that time of year again. Town is getting quiet, our wood pile needs replenishing and I have to say and as per usual for this autumn time of year, I am dreaming of skiing and mountains. As we are so far away from actual winter time and winter activities, I find myself (once again as per usual) thinking of ski gear, clothing systems and yes, what spring ski traverse to try...
The question is simple - Is there one system of clothing that will work for all skiing ventures?

I cant seem to find it if it exists.

From deep powder days in February to huck a lung adventures in April, I have come to the conclusion that one needs two separate but relatively simple systems to make it all work. After 15 years in outdoor retail, I have had ample spoilage and count myself lucky to have tried most of the offerings as far as fabrics, designs and manufacturers. I value simplicity in design, functionality and versatility above all. Here for you, dear reader are my thoughts on the ideal clothing systems for skiing..


For mid-winter cold powder/storm skiing I have gravitated to this set up:

patagonia powder bowl pants: gore performance shell fabric sets the stage and does the job in terms of waterproofness and comfort while setting mid storm up-tracks in the higher water content snow of rogers pass and the coast. Kneeling down or getting serious in a snow profile pit is also fine. Generous side vents allow heat dumping and a small pocket on the thigh allows room for a hat or light gloves. Heavy duty but light armor.

patagonia knifeblade pullover: Polartec powershield pro is a new fabric from malden mills which I used for about 40 days last year in this jacket. Ski touring, mixed and waterfall ice climbing in the rockies - It went the rounds. What I did like is the almost complete windproofness of the fabric (99%) but actually surprising breathability and waterproofness. I found I could break trail or be in a fast cadence for much longer than if I were wearing a hard shell. Not as breathable as traditional softshells that is certain, this fabric is trying to strike the middle ground. Even in wet conditions, I can leave the hard shell at home and rely on the KB for most 'full conditions" scenarios. One big mentione is that I have not had the "flashing" (frozen condensation on the inside of the jacket) that happens with hardshells in cold weather.
Minimalism is patagonia's trademark and I have always been drawn to this brand on account of my bias towards that philosophy. Now that I work for patagonia, it is hard to say that while sounding credible but the facts remain the same.

large coil YKK main zipper for durability, high stitch count.
high denier shell fabric, now recyclable for F11. Side vent and pocket, articulated knees.

For spring skiing the system changes dramatically as the temperature through the day varies and a penchant for early starts is preferable, as are huge days, lots of movement and hopefully powder, sunshine and alpine perfection. For these reasons and others, I have settled on a 100% softshell system:

patagonia houdini: This is the best jacket I have ever bought, very versatile. Steve House used one on Nanga Parbat with the subtext; "it doesnt rain at 20,000 feet". Well I have used this in the rain and its not perfect however for spring squalls, light drizzle and even heavy snowfall - it excels. Especially if you can find the gray area between high aerobic output and snow precip rate, which in itself is enough to keep the light fabric from wetting out and ultimately failing. It packs in your pocket.
patagonia alpine guide pant: Great 4 way stretch and comfort for aerobic endeavors with lots of daylight involved. Superb DWR and a simple gaiter to keep snow out. I prefer these in the spring due to the higher possibility of long bootpacks, crampon donning and most important, added over all comfort and breathability over hardshells.
patagonia R1 hoody: Over 12 years I have had 3 of these R1 pieces in different cuts, patagonia's lightest weight tech fleece. It accompanies me on every trip I do, from summer climbing to riding the wire at lake louise and everything in between. This thing gets a lot of hang time. The hood makes a lot of sense under a climbing helmet or as a sleeping hood for winter camping. The R1 waffled fabric creates a tremendous warmth/weigh ratio and the fit is legendary.
Missing: A DAS Parka always accompanies winter missions of all brands, as do the usual hat/mitt/toque counterparts. I would usually bring a super light waterproof jacket for descents and unexpected storms. Also I would typically wear Capilene 2 (patagonias most breathable underwear) next to skin top and bottom or if day tripping or hut trips, the lightest wool I can get (patagonia wool 1 is great!) . For longer duration trips involving winter camping, wool is not a great performing fabric and retains 70% of its own weight in water (sweat)- bottom line is if I am going hard for an objective and am worried about not being able to dry my base layer at home or in a hut, I am choosing synthetic. This was a lesson learned the hard way!

I hope your clothing keeps you warm and dry this winter as you search for powder and ice!

Road Sounds Redux

Lately I have been traveling a lot. Some for the operatives of work and some for the simple joy of road tripping with friends, dogs, coffee and more. Either way you look at it, I have spent more time away from home this year than ever, giving me a new scope on the coffee shop landscape in BC as well as an ever growing music collection; here dear reader is a short laundry list of the albums heard on my last trip brought to you once again from the Starbucks in Kamloops..


M83 Saturday = Youth
Melodic and eery residual 80's sounds for you, very good. Described as opening a love letter from the 80's. Can't remember where I got that..



Mariachi El Bronx
Interesting blend of tightly knit Mariachi band mixed with "cake" like vocals, good lyrics. Sometimes disturbing/compelling and the music is so damn catchy. Good.
Amon Tobin : Permutations
An electronic classic, when Mike Pollard first played this for me I was floored. Ambient alien sounds mixed with rock solid drum and base.
Murs and 9th Wonder - Murrays Revenge.
A good rap album from Mur's, a departure from his earlier stuff, more introspective and thought full. less ego and gun clapping.
Steamin' with the Miles Davis Quintet.
What can I say...probably a top ten for me..extra brilliance in that in addition to Walkin' and relaxin', was recorded before the switch of record labels and to essentially fulfill a contratctual agreement. They did a few of these albums, the last Miles Davis' cool jazz works in a matter of months. They are all considered standard albums and jazz wonderfreund. Miles went on to set his own perimeters with the explosive sounds of Bitches Brew and others..

Girl Talk - ALL DAY
A mash up classic and a genre defining album. Crazy for the uninitiated but brilliant noise to others. I like.

Paul Mailloux

My Dad was a great man. He loved, laughed and lived as good or better than most I know.

He loved Carrie and I, not one to say it with words- He showed it. Cross province moves, random house repairs when you didn't even know he stopped by and lots of phone calls "just cause" to see what was new in your world. When you spoke to my dad, he really wanted to know how you were doing, he was just an easy guy to talk to. A lot of people told me how much they liked him and spoke of a genuine kindness in his heart, if there is one quality I will remember of my Dad it would be this.

When I was 16 I thought I knew everything there was to know about climbing mountains and we just so happened to be in California and in the famous halls of Yosemite on a family vacation. Already infatuated with everything in sight, I gazed upon the 1000m walls of El Capitan and told my dad at once what we were going to do, I said "Pops! I will make you a harness. I've got a few biners and some rope- lets go and climb that thing!". Without much protest, we were at the base of the Captain staring up into the void. My Dad with his homemade harness and me leading off with nothing more then two allowance's worth of climbing gear and a dream in my mind. I looked down at my dad at a hard section and I could see him egging me on, I slipped and he caught me with the rope. Just like that our summit fever was gone. We retired to a burger stand nearby and talked about bigger ideas, it was one of those great memories I have of him. He was supportive like that, with his actions.

I have a lot of good memories of him.

During the last few years he developed a penchant for travelling. As he packed for places like Russia, Cambodia, Vietnam and the Dominican Republic I was amazed at his pragmatism and "take it as it comes" attitude. He would disappear for a month or so, usually befriending a local family who he would stay with and become friends with over time, helping around the house and sharing stories, living simply. He spoke of these people often, he loved to meet new people.

Sometime when kids grow up they waver at the idea of being like their parents. I Cannot say the same about my Dad. He was certain, caring and attentive to almost everyone. Its been a few months since he passed on but I think about him everyday. Godspeed pops.

Selkirk's Avalanche to Uto

Spent the last few days soaking it all up and doing some fancy walking amongst good friends in Rogers Pass. I have always been in love with long ridges. Looking up at the mountains as a kidlet I remember thinking that you might be inclined to walk along them and connect miles and miles into one long adventure. W a y before I knew anything about climbing, ridges spoke to me. Hell they yelled at me in a way that I couldn't leave in the pages of ignorance. Add some stories from Peter Crofts mega traverses during in the 90's and you have a sure fire recipe for a good time. Just lace up your approach shoes, throw in a anemic rack and pack as much calories into your lightest pack. Now wait for the best weather and go! And don't forget to strap on cause' its going to be a lot of FUN!
We decided to try the Avalanche to Uto traverse and if time permitted, a hot lap on Sir Donald would be an inviting smorgasbord for a finish..
G on the traverse..glory spotted here..
The meat of the trip with Eagle, Uto and Sir Donald visible. We had a high bivi at the eagle/avalanche col as these trips with Jon and G are as much about the climbing as the disturbing and sometimes unconventional anecdotes, conversation and company.
Bivi times, hard times, you know i've had my share..
We opted for a pass on Sir D and headed down to the camp ground near the burbling Illecilewet river. On our last day we had designs for the classic ridge on Tupper but after having showery scenes in the alpine for our future, we opted instead for a nifty alpine circuit around hermit meadows. Great times with great friends in the cradle of mountaineering.