Mt. Taylor Traverse w/ Heartstrings finish

Had a great day on this classic trip with friends yesterday. It's in great shape, excellent travel throughout and the nice surprise of boot top preserved N facing powder on heartstrings.

Shudder Glacier and Mt. Duke

It has been some time since I posted, due to being firmly in recovery from a torn sartorius muscle. The results of an attempt at a delicate and yet somehow burly route at the climbing gym in Canmore. It sounded like a zipper when it tore and was quite audible throughout the gym, I thought myself lucky for only having a class 2 tear of this muscle that I had never even considered before..After hobbling around for a few weeks and religiously gardening, working, domestic blissing and physio'ing, I got the green light to go skiing. "Go for an hour or so and see how it feels' was the parting advice from my PT on Tuesday. I could hardly sleep.

 Shudder Glacier to Wedge Creek

 On Wednesday morning, Scotty and Ryan were kind enough to accompany 'the gimp' (me) on a little ski mission in the Spearheads, with no real set intentions we made quick time past Decker, Trorey and Tremor, arriving at a small unnamed summit with the rolling Shudder glacier below. It looked good all the way to the valley and the overnight freeze was great, making lower elevation travel just fine. We looked at each other, knowing that dropping to the bottom meant a 5 hour return trip to Blackcomb and the end to the proposed 'little day'...

The 'spine' bringing you over to Trorey.

Classic Spearhead bootpack, beyond this lies the niftiest parts of the range!

Nearing the small unnamed peak above Shudder Glacier, seen below.

Ryan and Scott.

We pulled the climbing skins and 'let the skis run', with the coverage lacking this year we brought harnesses and a small rope and used it for a few hundred meters as we poked around through an icefall. The snow surface was uniform and that made for consistency in the skiing, albeit a bit 'wind pressed' in sections but good.. It was great to finally ski the described longest run in the Spearheads, be in the company of good friends and feel the remoteness this area exudes.

After reaching lower wedge creek, you turn left for about 7or maybe 8 km, staying around the 1400-1700m level until you reach Phalanx peak and a nifty little bench that is one of the only things I have seen that is a good argument for divine creation. Later, around 8pm we skied perfect corn groomers by headlamp to a car beer and great mexican at Mexican Corner in Whistler


After a day of rest Ryan and I joined our friends Linda and John for a classic ascent of Vantage Peak, a jester in a court of kings, surrounded by the high country that is Joffre, Matier and Howard. Quite the ambiance for such an accessible peak. We enjoyed a very mellow pace this day, talking the whole way up and just enjoying good company in the 'pine'.

Linda, John and Ryan approach the summit of Vantage.

Great skiing down Vantages NE flanks.

All is well that ends well!

Mt. Duke

On our Vantage day it was hard not to look over and see this great ski descent on Mt. Duke, connected by a short ridge to Vantage although accessed from a different valley, that of Van Horlick. I do love aesthetic ski peaks, that in which you climb up, hopefully mostly on skis, gain a summit then get to ski a different aspect, creating a bit of a 'circuit', Mt. Duke is just that!

Great terrain all the way to Duke/Vantage col. There was about 7km of logging road to reach this spot..not super photogenic.

On the shoulder of Duke. Was nice to have the ski crampons.

Some 'non skis on' climbing, sometimes you can apparently ski right to the top of Duke, not so for us. We had fun negotiating the little steps.

Some great lines on Mt. Howard.

After reaching the summit, you get a view of the Mt. Duke descent, 550m to the lake at the bottom, sheltered and N facing.

Todd drops in for first tracks, we found lightly windpressed powder over a hard crust.

Ryan spraying the snow to the right, later he sprayed it left.

Mt. Duke from the Duffey lake road. Go do it!

What a great few days with friends and words fall short in describing the joy in being back on skis during these long and beauty spring days.

Cheers!
Ross

Alpine Horeshoe - Gentian/Helm Ridge Traverse

Last week we had the pleasure of having a few friends stay with us in our new home in Squamish. Chris Haywood stayed over the weekend and we had the opportunity and weather to head into the high country in Garibaldi Park. No dogs, hunting or off roading allowed in this park. Luck would have it that we left our pups, six guns and Dakar-Paris bikes safe at home so we were all set for a great adventure - perfect weather forecast tucked into our back pockets!

A right had turn up Helm Creek leaves the Chekamus Lake Trail and brings you Helm Meadows and later, the volcanic smorgasbord that is Black Tusk meadows..

After Helm Campground at KM 9, we took a NE turn, off trail to gain the tow of Gentian Ridge where we gained the alpine, a place we would stay for the next two days as we walked around the ridges that connect Gentian with panorama ridge.

Its all just walking, not even 'fancy' walking. You can have your hands in your pockets the whole time, which would be hard for taking pictures. But you could do it.

The views were amazing along the way, very beautiful country and not a single person on the ridge, which is not a traditional route although signs of passage are everywhere.

Campsite at the head of the Helm Glacier with a tiny tarn for water and a cool view of the mighty glacier spilling from the Castle Towers.

Sunset we wont soon forget.

The next day we left our tarn under an approaching storm front, we quickly moved and make our way to Panorama Ridge, scrambling a few summits along the way.

Including Helm Peak..

Garibaldi Lake comes into view...

A couple of buddies, a great reunion and a stellar trip into the high country.

Thanks Chris!

Chilcotin Riding

Had an amazing time with some friends riding from Lorna Lake to Tyax lodge over two days last weekend...

Loading up the beaver. 5 bikes, dudes and packs.

Unloading at Lorna Lake.

Hike a Bike over Lorna Pass.

Martin cresting Lorna Pass.

Camping at the junction of Deer Pass Trail

A little yoga goes a long way.

Ultralight, not so comfy sleeping pad set up demonstrated by Scott.

I brought a 20L pack and carried a stove, sleeping pad, bivi sack, liner, lots of food and 3 L of water.

Cresting the 550m climb up Deer Pass.

Horseflies are not your best friend.

Sweet rewards. hours and hours of single track riding from Deer Pass to Tyax Lodge where I had the best burger Ive ever had.

A great trip with Scott, Martin, Rob and Jamie - Thanks guys!

Evolution Traverse

 Since I was little I imagined climbing on ridge lines, I daydreamed about what it would be like on that juxtaposition in the sky, between land and space - It was just so 'there' and unavoidable. Some of my favorite climbing since then has taken place in the theater of ridges and I have grown very found of this style of climbing. It takes a long long time for a ridge climb to end, measured in miles and kilometers instead of feet or meters, so perfect in many ways.

 It was 1997 I believe when I first starting reading about Peter Crofts exploits in the Sierra's of California. I don't recall the specifics of that particular piece but '70 pitch ridges', 'flawless mountain granite' and 'almost too-good weather' rang home. Something about it resonated in me and a few years later I started seeking out the great ridge climbs of the Rockies and Selkirks. Travelling lightly and forever, I felt like Peter Pan, flying for the first time - the possibilities for adventure expanded. Always in the back of my mind loomed the ginormity of the 'grand course' ridge, the king; The Evolution Traverse in the Sierra backcountry.

 Julian and I were going through the options for a post Outdoor Retailer trip and with a bit of hesitation I suggested it. I knew we could give it a solid try and with a bit of luck, maybe pull the damn thing off in a day. Time to pull out the pickle...

 Sierra alpine start = Magic.

 Early on, lower Mendel.

 With Huxley on the far right, the end of the traverse and 7 miles away.

 Lots of easy 5th class.

 We are on the Evolution!

 Moving quickly through the great knobs.

 Between Mendel and Darwin. Awesome.

 Darwin summit block.

After reaching about the halfway mark, we looked at each other and knew we needed to go down but neither of us wanted to say anything. It was getting late in the day, there was literally miles of 5th class ahead and we were slowing down. The rope was coming out more and more, our bodies racked from the week of OR, the logistics of the trip and being at altitude; everything was taking its toll.  We started rapping and reached the talus just as the first fat drops started falling, 2 hours of intense thunderstorms surprised us but somehow made us feel better. We arrived back at the wet tent, made some curry and passed out.

Amazing.

We will be back...

Many thanks to Julian for his energy, enthusiasm and good nature!