Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Selkirk's Avalanche to Uto

Spent the last few days soaking it all up and doing some fancy walking amongst good friends in Rogers Pass. I have always been in love with long ridges. Looking up at the mountains as a kidlet I remember thinking that you might be inclined to walk along them and connect miles and miles into one long adventure. W a y before I knew anything about climbing, ridges spoke to me. Hell they yelled at me in a way that I couldn't leave in the pages of ignorance. Add some stories from Peter Crofts mega traverses during in the 90's and you have a sure fire recipe for a good time. Just lace up your approach shoes, throw in a anemic rack and pack as much calories into your lightest pack. Now wait for the best weather and go! And don't forget to strap on cause' its going to be a lot of FUN!
We decided to try the Avalanche to Uto traverse and if time permitted, a hot lap on Sir Donald would be an inviting smorgasbord for a finish..
G on the traverse..glory spotted here..
The meat of the trip with Eagle, Uto and Sir Donald visible. We had a high bivi at the eagle/avalanche col as these trips with Jon and G are as much about the climbing as the disturbing and sometimes unconventional anecdotes, conversation and company.
Bivi times, hard times, you know i've had my share..
We opted for a pass on Sir D and headed down to the camp ground near the burbling Illecilewet river. On our last day we had designs for the classic ridge on Tupper but after having showery scenes in the alpine for our future, we opted instead for a nifty alpine circuit around hermit meadows. Great times with great friends in the cradle of mountaineering.


Monday, August 01, 2011

Temple Crag

Another great trip into the "range of light", this time to climb the monsterous north east side of Temple Crag..so dreamy..If you like pitch after pitch of splitter cracks, blue skies and perfect weather - I suggest you check out the Sierra East side. I have decided that a year should not pass without visiting this range..true story...
Temple Crag
First Tower
Matt is enjoying himself here..
Sent! We packed up camp and dashed out of the area just as big fat rain drops started to fall, stinging our faces and hands. We made it to Bishop in time to sample some fine mexican food.

Our trip was marred only by the daily thunderstorms that were both extremely violent and beautiful.

Thanks to Matt for the company, laughs and for holding the rope. Cant wait for the next trip buddy!