Saturday, December 06, 2008

Mt. Wilson and Guiness Gully

What a great two days out in the mountains with friends this past Thursday and Friday. With the new gear box on the car we loaded up and shot north towards the hulking mass of Mt. Wilson and the routes Lady Wilsons Cleavage and Wilson Major. Bad roads to the wayside, we unpacked and cramponed up the frozen creek and the wonderful steps of Lady Wilson. Staying dry from the few deep water wells under the steps required panache and we realized that our boots are water-proof except for the hole on top.
Racking up on the highway, a truly great thing. We enjoyed nice temperatures and constant stand up comedy routines.
Mike firing the meat and potatoes of Wilson Major, a great lead on great ice in a great setting with a great coffee waiting at Laggans. More on the coffee, we actually did not enjoy the beverage because we ended up on the route until about 9pm. Yup thats right, with two out of four headlamps no less. I guess thats what you get when you have an accumulated climbing experience between us of 20 years? A great day and such a nice place up there. Dinner at the Lake Louise hostel followed by the log impersonation in bed.
Zach and I walking up to the last pitch on Guiness Gully in Field, BC. Another great climb .


The first pitch of Guiness in thicker than normal shape taking pretty good screws the whole way. After this we rappelled off to the delights of the Siding cafe and its great coffee and proper cappuccino skills as well as baked goods. Soon after we slid our way home on the trans-canada back to Canmore. Awesome. This ice climbing as of late has been really good, cant wait till the next time. Thanks to Amitai, Zach and Mike Treetops for a stellar weekend with good company as usual.

All photos courtesy of Amitai Gat.

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