Monday, August 25, 2008

Mt. Aberdeen- North Glacier

On Friday it was once again time to assemble the posse and head up into the alpine. Zack, Amitae and I had a great day up on Mt. Aberdeen in Lake Louise  swinging ice tools, belaying across newly bridged crevasses and generally just having a good time. From 6am it pretty much involved the whole day to get up to the glory rock ridge which led up to the summit where we high fived and snapped a few photos before trundling south wards into the amazing Paradise Valley and the ensuing bushwack. Once the creek was reached it was easy sailing and we made good time getting to Moraine Lake road, not before seeing a big bull moose licking his chops and staring us down  before continuing into the creek. From the road I did a quick hitch hike to our car in Lake Louise where we raided the gas station for edibles, a stellar day!

The lower tongue of the Aberdeen glacier, ice climbing in August.

On the upper glacier.

Zack and Amitae just below the bergschrund, 4 pitches left to the summit.

Zack on the small steep part with a bit of rock on the left, the best combo!

A happy team, Mt. Temple in the back ground.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Mt. Edith Cavell

On Saturday night, Michelle and I packed our packs and shot up the highway to Jasper to climb the classic East Ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell. After a quick parking lot bivy, we awoke at 3 am and hit the trail. Our friends John and Martin were also climbing on Sunday and we all launched up the ridge, enjoying the great weather and views, soaking it all in and enjoying the fine company. This was also Michelle's first big alpine climb after she broke her foot in May, it was really great that she could be up there. A really great day!

On the Approach scramble.
Michele with broken foot, all smiles.

Michelle and summit.
Tonquin Valley.






Mts. Woolley and Diadem

Last week I had the pleasure of joining my friends Amitae and Zack for a trip into the Columbia Icefields area for some classic mountaineering. We packed our bags and blasted down the parkway Thursday morning, ready for the scalding coldness of the Sunwapta River crossing. Indeed, a great time was had as we hiked up and made a stellar bivy under the routes and stars. 
When morning dawned, we made coffee in the inky night and made our way up the glacier and the big couloirs. Nice snow climbing and rock scrambling led to the final couloir, leading us to the broad col between the two mountains and after going just a little bit further and basking in the 25 degreee heat at 9 am, we pulled the plug before summiting either one. A good call as the snow was knee deep and only getting deeper. We quickly descended and broke out the coffee and lunches, after looking up at we had gone up and catching glimpses of the neighboring Mt. Alberta and other giants, we could sit back and take it all in- this is one of the best spots in the Rockies.
The Sunwapta double espresso.
The fellas at the bivy, dinner was dried food and enormous talk of the next day.
The second couloir, descending.

Wooley and Diadem. Super classics

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Unamed Mountain

Looking down at Lake Louise from the Plain of the six glaciers trail.
The Impressive Mt. Lefroy.

Last week it became winter once again up in the alpine country. Zac, Amitai and mysef loaded up the car for an early start up the classic Unnamed in Lake Louise. Halfway up, the fresh snow and running water turned us around as well as a sky that had been threatening all day. A great day was had as we scrambled up and descended the frosty ridge.