Friday, August 27, 2010

6 Months


It has been 6 months since my very good friend Mike passed away. I usually think of him everyday, sometimes I miss a day or two but most days I think of something he did or said. Mike was a really great person, one of the best I have known. He was a great climbing partner, he would say things like "what a great lead" or "Man, you made that look sooo easy" all the time, even when you looked like a drunk sailor! I remember a trip, recently broken from a rather nasty time in my life where we drove to Yamnuska from Edmonton for a day on our favourite cliff. We started up and I couldn't bring myself to climb, I was too bummed out and I felt terrible about it. Then Mike offered, "Why don't we head down, grab a coffee and go for a drive?". It was exactly what I needed, even though this was Mikes one day all week to climb, we ended up walking, coffee in hand up a creek, Mike playing therapist. It was one of the best days.

Here is to good friends.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Cold, Cold World.

Every year around this time I get lusty. For ski season that is. The nights have been cold in Canmore lately and after a rather frosty trip into the Valhallas last week the worm is turning and I cant help but think of winter things and the encompassing magic that is sure to come. Around October when the nights get longer and the cold runs into the bones I like to pull out the maps and guidebooks, pour a nice scotch and dive into it with stoke on the brain and endless adventure at the fingertips. I cant wait.
Rogers Pass, 2008.

Here is to warm fireplaces, winter storms, snowy roads and powder snow.

Hope all is well friends.


Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Valhalla

I had the great opportunity to join my good friend Drew for a successful outing to the Valhalla range in the southern Kootenay's this past few days. We have been hearing about Mt. Gimli for years and it was a great feeling to finally pack up, load up the car and make our way to BC. Finally catching a first glimpse of the beautiful South Ridge of Gimli was a great thing.

On the Shelter Bay Ferry to Nakusp. On the return trip, under a full moon and cloudless sky I couldn't help being introspective and quiet, watching the ripples in the placid water and marvelling at the wonder of it all.
Mt. Gimli, the object of our desire. Valhalla Provincial Park. S Ridge is the obvious edge.
Drew and I on the big ledge at mid height on Gimli's South Ridge. The wind and cold let off enough to remove the jackets hood from time to time but little else.
"Here on the ridge-crest, climb perfect cracks and corners on perfect rock in a spectacular position. One of the best 5.7 pitches in the world" So the North American Classic Climbs website goes on to say after describing the already stellar climbing below. Indeed, this is the best 5.7 pitch I have ever done and I can best describe it as 5.7 climbing in 5.10 terrain, the whole while the 300m north face of Gimli draws you in to the right.

Drew on the descent back to camp.
Drew immersed in the wonder of it all.
All the while, maurading bands of goats graze around the camp in an endless pursuit for salt. A very fitting companionship for this park given that Valhalla is supposed to be home for Heidrun the goat.

After 8 pitches of dreamy alpine wonder-stone and taking it all in for hours, we were full of contentment and grateful for such a great day. Thanks Drew!

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Sḵwxwú7mesh aka Squamish


Just arrived home from a great and relaxing trip out to the coast, namely the Squamish and Vancouver zones. The former for the excellent rock climbing and the latter to see my good friend Leigh for some good food. We were lucky enough to have 4 days of climbing with one day of relaxing and many nights of socializing with friends new and old. I get to travel to this part of the world for work but it is not often where I can enjoy the surroundings without submitting to a phone call or a meeting. This trip however the phone was mostly away, the flip flops were out and a vacation was had by all!
I want to make the most of our summer road trip, how can I do this Canadian Tire? Oh, with the help of low priced camping supplies! We picked up a tarp here, now on with the road trip!
Linus the dog, Erin's best bud. He fasted for most of the trip but came to stirring life when presented with steak leftovers...
Every night we ate well, here is a lemongrass pork salad with pear.
Peasants Route, on our first day we managed a great 8 pitches at the base of the Grand Wall culminating in this route. A great one at that, this picture captures the crux pitch.
Our camp at Alice lake, we spent 4 nights here cooking, drinking nice wine selections and enjoying good company. I feel like I could have stayed there for another two weeks easy.

Erin enjoying life on peasants route.

Monday, August 16, 2010

Update for Mom.

I dont have a lot of time to write this morning but here are a couple of photos of a recent work trip to Salt Lake City to view. Having also just arrived home from an amazing road trip to Squamish with Erin, I will have a few stories and photos of that soon..

Garlic peeling and Pabst. A combination as good as gold and chest hair.
I know its a bit cheesball but this rainbow viewed from the garlic farm took our collective breath away.